BALI


                                                                                  Far away paradise

                                                                                   Uzaktaki cennet 

48f6-4e10-0b1d-79ca                                                                    Pura Ulun Danu Temple / Tapınagı

Never die before seeing Bali’  is the best Indonesian proverb for describing the paradise on earth. You would only understand how true it is when you meet Bali and friendly Balinese people. 

‘Bali’yi gormeden olme’ dunyadaki cenneti anlatmak icin kullanilan en iyi Endonezya atasozu. Bu atasozunun ne kadar dogru olabilecegini ancak Bali ve cana yakin Bali halki ile tanisinca anlayabilirsiniz.

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Tanah Lot Temple / Tapınagı

 Indonesia has very interesting geography with its more than 17500 island. Only more than 8800 named and only 922 of them inhabited, rest are waiting for purchasing. I wish I could have one of those paradise. Jakarta is the capital and located in Java island and has the half of the country’s population. 

17500’den fazla adasi ile cok ilginc bir cografyaya sahip olan Endonezya’nin sadece 8800 tane adasina isim verebilmisler ve bunlarin da ancak 922 tanesinde yasam var. Galiba geri kalanlar da satin alinmayi bekliyor. Keske bunlardan bir tanesi benim olsa. Java adasinda bulunan Jakarta ulkenin baskenti olup, nufusun ise yarisini barindiriyor. 

686a-337e-2931-30b4                                                                                               Nusa Dua 

Bali is the most famous touristic island of the country. It got its fame by surf lovers and hippie travellers around 50s 60s, since than it becomes world known touristic destination for everybody. Also Bali is reasonable in terms of price comparison with other touristic islands even cheaper than many Turkish and European holiday destination. Maybe just because of being far, it makes Bali unthinkable. But if you make good price checking and follow offers, you would get your dream holiday. Unfortunately we were inexperience and made mistakes on payments but still it was cheaper than holiday in Bodrum.

Bali, ulkenin en unlu turizm adasi. 50ler ve 60lar’da hippi ve surf tutkunlari tarafindan populeritesini zamanla kazandi ve o gunden bugune herkes icin tercih edilen dunyaca unlu bir turistik destinasyon halini aldi. Ayrica Bali diger turizm adalarina kiyasla fiyat olarak daha da uygun, hatta Turkiye ve Avrupa’daki bircok tatil mekanindan da uygun. Galiba mesafesinin uzak olmasi gozleri biraz korkutuyor. Ama eger iyi bir fiyat calismasi yapip, kampanyalari da takip ederseniz belki de hayalinizdeki tatili yapabilirsiniz. Malesef ki bizim biraz deneyimsiz olmamiz bize biraz zarar getirdi ama buna ragmen Bodrum’da yapacagimiz tatilden daha ucuza geldi.

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                                                                                     Tegenungan Waterfall 

In Indonesia dominant religion is Islam, also it is the biggest Muslim country in the world. However unlike the dominance of Islam in the country, Hinduism is the 09ec-dd70-c916-f061common religion in Bali and Buddhism a bit. But Hinduism is in here different than we know and seen before. Maybe mixing with Buddhism. As soon as you enter the country you are going to see ‘tiny offerings’ more than people and more shrine than houses. Be aware!. It starts from airport check-in desks to entry of houses, restaurants, shops, everywhere. On a small yellow leaf they are offering meals to their Gods before every meal. In that tray, they put rice, candy, fruit, flower, cookies, sometimes cigarettes even coffee. At first I surprised with them because they are everywhere and you have to be very careful for not stepping on  one. It is fine to step on them accidentally because they are going to throw away anyway but in according to Balinese believe ‘it will give you bad luck’ . Every morning they offer food before they start their works and every night they repeat it before sunset. You will see people holding trays and incense all around. When we went Tanah Lot for watching sunset, we watched group of people while they were doing their ceremony for their Gods.

3a1d-c5f0-7e70-2ccfIslamiyet Endonezya’da ki en yaygin din, hatta dunyanin en buyuk musluman ulkesi. Ama ulkenin genelininafe4-134d-289d-8bfc aksine Bali’de Hinduizm agir basiyor ve buna biraz da Budizm eklenebilir. Fakat burada ki Hinduism bizim daha onceden bildigimiz ve gordugumuz Hinduism’den biraz farkli, belki de Budizm ile kaynasmasindan kaynakli olabilir. Ulkeye girdiginiz andan itibaren ‘kucuk sunumlar’ gormeye basliyorsunuz. Insanlardan daha cok ‘sunum’, evlerden daha cok ‘sunak’ goruceksiniz. Hazirlikli olun, sasirmayin. Havalimaninin check-in masasindan basliyor evlerin, is yerlerinin, magazalarin, restaurantlarin girislerine kadar her yerde. Kucuk sari yaprak uzerine Tanrilari icin yemekler sunulan tepsilerde; pirinc, cicek, seker, meyve, kurabiye hatta bazen sigara ve kahvede bulunuyor. Ilk basta ben biraz sasirmistim cunku her yerde ‘sunaklar’ var. Uzerlerine basmama konusunda biraz dikkatli olmalisiniz. Kazara basabilirsiniz ama Bali inanisina gore ‘size kotu sans getirir’. Her sabah ise gitmeden once yemeklerini sunarlar ve bu her aksamda gunes yapmadan once tekrarlanir. Her yerde elinde sari yaprak tepsi ve tutsu tasiyan insanlari gorebilirsiniz. Tanah Lot’da  gun batimini izlemeye gittigimiz zaman denize dogru Tanrilarina ikramda bunulunan bir grup insanin seramonisini izledik. 

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Straight after airport differentiations salute you. Hippie tourists, surf lovers, posh travellers, curious and happy couples on honeymoon, young travellers, backpackers, 6 family member share one small motorbike, street vendors and me with my travel buddy Norah. This small island is full with surprises, I guess my first impression was ‘ohh Gosh, Fatma, you never seen this much contrast in one place before’ because Bali I used to pictured before is one of the paradise with amazing sandy beaches, lush rice terraces, barren volcanic hillsides, spectacular sea behind rugged coastlines, beautiful sunset and sunrise places. But just starting from airport to hotel, I couldn’t stop thinking and match the city I dream and I seen now. I guess I have to wait the sunrise to erase all those differentiation.

Havalimanindan itibaren tezatliklar sizi karsilamaya basliyor. Hippi turisler, surf tutkunlari, zengin turisler, balayindaki mutlu ve merakli ciftler, genc ve sirt cantali seyyahlar, bir motoru paylasan 6 kisilik bir aile, sokak saticilari ve Fatma ile yol arkadasi Norah. Bu kucuk ada tamamen surprizlerle dolu, galiba ilk izlenimim ise ‘Ooo! Galiba bu kazar tezatligi bir arada daha once hic gormemissindir Fatma’ cunku benim hayalini kurdugum Bali icinde hani su harika kumsallari, yemyesil pirinc tarlalari, corak volkanik tepeleri, kayalikli sahillerin arkasindaki mavi denizleri, harika gundogumu ve batiminin oldugu yerleri olan cennet bir adaydi. Ama havalimanindan itibaren su an gordugum sehir ile hayalini kurdugum sehri karsilastirmaktan kendimi alamadim acikcasi. Galiba kafamdaki tum bu farkliliklari silmek icin gunesin dogmasini beklicem.

4c80-3730-4f42-6a36                                                                          Jatiluwih Rice Terrace / Pirinc Tarlası

To travel Bali; there is not much direct flight from Europe, either via Singapore or Jakarta or direct flight from Dubai or Doha. I fly via Singapore where is more tempting to see for me. Bali has two airport but Denpasar Airport is the international one and you should book your tickets to here. Airasia, Lionairs, Garuda and Singapore Airlines (most expensive one) are fly to Bali. We fly with Airasia (it is cheap and times are more relevant for us). Flights from Singapore around 20€ – 40€, most of the flights have delays. Airport is very undeveloped even though for being very touristic city, but don’t worry you are heading to beach not to apron. 

Indonesia and Singapore do not require a visa for European and Turkish citizens. This is a good reason to travel again. 

Bali’ye seyahat icin malesef ki pek fazla direk ucus yok. Ya Singapur veya Jakarta aktarmali ya da Dubai veya Doha uzerinden direk ucus ile gidebilirsiniz. Ben, gormeyi daha cok istedigim bir yer oldugu icin Singapur uzerinden gittim. Bali’de iki tane havalimani var ve Denpasar Havalimani uluslararasi ucuslarin oldugu onun icin biletlerinizi buraya almalisiniz. Airasia, Lionairs, Garuda ve Singapur Havayollari (en pahalisi bu) Bali’ye ucuyor. Biz Airasia ile uctuk (hem ucuz hemde ucus saatleri daha uygundu). Singapur’dan Bali’ye ucuslar ortalama 20€ – 40€ arasinda ve hemen hemen tum ucuslar rotarli oluyor, soylemesi. Havalimani turistlik bir sehir olmasina ragmen gelismemis ama olsun sorun degil cunku kumsala gidiyorsunuz aprona degil. 

Endonezya ve Singapur Turk ve Avrupa vatandaslarindan vize istemiyor. Bu da tekrar gitmek icin guzel bir sebep.  

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                                                                               Gili Island / Adası

  Climate: Country has two seasons dry and rainy seasons. December to March is west monsoon with high humidity and heavy rains. June to September with low humidity and quite cool in the evenings. Around the year it could rain anytime and when it rains, rains like cat and dogs. Once we got that heavy rain and witnessed motorbikes were dragged. Island has so much humidity around the year and it makes you very dizzy. When I say humidity, it is not something we have in Turkey, much more intense. Especially first two days when you are struggling with jet lag. I suggest you to be more relax on your 1-2 days. Best time to visit Bali is around April- early May. We went in mid may but it was still too hot and crowded. Most popular and crowded times are August-September and December (summer and new year for Austrians). We were always told that we came in a perfect time, nevertheless time to time we found it very difficult to walk or drive to the places. I cannot imagine how it would be in August. 

Iklim ise; adada kuru ve yagisli sezon olmak uzere iki sezon var. Aralik- mart arasi yogun nemin ve asiri yagislarin oldugu bati muson donemi. Haziran- eylul arasi ise alcak nemli ve geceleri serin bir donem. Yil boyunca her an yagmur yagabilir ve yagdigi zaman bardaktan bosanircasina yagiyor. Bir keresinde yakalandik ve motorlarin suruklendigine tanik olduk. Adada yilin her vakti asiri bir nem oluyor ve bu da sizi fazlasi ile yoruyor. Nem dedigim zaman Turkiye’deki nem akliniza gelmesin, bu ondan cok daha yogun. Ozellikle jetlag ile bogusurken ki ilk iki gun. 1-2 gununuzu daha sakin gecirmenizi tavsiye ederim. Ziyaret icin en iyi zaman nisan- mayis basi. Biz Mayis ayinin ortasinda gittik ve buna ragmen cok kalabalik ve sicakti. En yogun zamanlar ise; agustos-eyluk ve aralik (Avustralya icin yaz ve yeni yil). Bize soylenen ise ‘ siz en iyi zamanda geldiniz ama biz buna ragmen bir yerden bir yere yururken ya da araba ile bir yere giderken cok zorlandik. Bunun agustos’ta nasil olacagini asla tahmin edemiyorum. 

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                                                                                 Jatiluwih Rice Terrace / Pirinc Tarlası

Currency is Indonesian Rupiah (INR).Try not to use your credit card because banks charge you more and places take commission as well, between 3 % to 5 %. Government asks you to use INR on your shopping. It took me ages to understand their currency, it was hard to believe that their currency is very low but yes it is. 100 $ = around 1.700.000 INR. I felt I am very rich and though how am I gonna finish them all. Believe me with one Luwak coffee it flies. Food and transportation is very very cheap but touristic shops and places are higher, nevertless everything is much more cheaper than west.

2ee7-ff9f-0d9b-8c98One more thing for money, we made all of our hotel bookings via ‘booking.com’ hotels and banks charge us more than what we saw on the web site, we couldn’t get it and by the time we noticed it was pretty late. My suggestion is book your accommodations with your own currency and double check the currency differences. If you will stay more than 2-3 hotels, number becomes scary comparing to things you could do in Bali with that amount.

Para birimi; Endonezya Rupiah (INR). Alisverislerinizde kredi karti kullanmamaya calisin, hem bankalar daha fazla ucretlendiriyor hemde lokal yerler %3- %5 arasi komisyon aliyor. Zaten ulkede alisverislerinizde INR kullanmanizi tavsiye ediyor. Benim icin onlarin para birimini anlamak gercekten cok zor oldu cunku para birimlerinin bu kadar az olabilecegini anlamak gercekten cok zor. 100 $ = ortalama 1.700.00 INR. Ilk basta kendimi cok zengin zannettim, ben bu kadar parayi nasil bitiricem falan oldum ama bir paket Luwak kahvesi ile para ucup gidiyor. Ulasim ve yemek gercekten cok ama cok ucuz fakat turistik mekanlar ve alisveris yerleri biraz daha pahali, yine de batiya gore hersey cok ucuz. 

Para ile ilgili baska bir konu ise; biz tum rezervasyonlarimizi ‘booking.com’dan yaptik, oteller ve bankalar bizden internette gordugumuz rakamlardan daha fazlasini aldilar. Bizim bunu fark etmemiz ise fazlasi ile gec oldu. Benim tavsiyem rezervasyonlarinizi kendi para biriminiz ile yapip aradaki doviz farklarini ciddi ciddi kontrol etmeniz. Eger 2-3 ya da daha fazla otelde kalicaksaniz rakamlar gercekten korkunc bir hal aliyor, hele ki bu para ile Bali’de yapabileceklerinizi dusununce evlat acisi gibi oluyor. 

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Rules for shopping; Bargaining and bargaining. Sometimes they come with bargaining themselves and you push forward bargaining. Taa taa you got the thing you want with very good price. 

I recommend you to tip! People are earning very low and even though with this low income, they serve you like a princess and the tips you give makes them unbelievable happy. (100 INR= 1.5 $ = 1 GBP). At first we were tipping around 30-50 INR and when I learn how small was it, felt so bad. Be generous guys, those people deserve kindness too. 

Alisveris icin tek bir kural var, o da ‘pazarlik ve pazarlik’. Hatta bazen kendileri pazarlik yaparak geliyorlar ve eger sizde devam ederseniz. Taa taa almak istediginiz seyi cok uygun fiyata alabiliyorsunuz. 

Bahsis vermenizi tavsiye ederim! Insanlar gercekten cok az kazaniyor ve bu kadar az kazanmalarina ragmen size prensesler gibi hizmet ediyorlar ve vereceginiz bahsisler inanin onlari o kadar cok mutlu ediyor ki. (100 INR= 1.5 $ = 4.5 TL). Ilk baslarda bizde 30-50 INR arasinda bahsis veriyorduk ve ne kadar ufak oldugunu ogrenince kendimden utandim. Bonker olun arkadaslar, o insanlar da iyiligi hak ediyor. 

j                                                                           Gitgit Waterfalls / Selalesi

Travelling inside the island isn’t very easy but very cheap. Don’t even think of renting a car. It is very difficult to drive in Bali and so much traffic only with one way roads. If you trust yourself and able to navigate in the city, you would rent a motor but I still don’t recommend. Because literally there is not much rule, and sometimes a motorbike comes from nowhere… Every hotel organise a car with driver and you could rent them a day and price is very funny comparing to western market. Taxi is the another alternative but but use only ‘bluebird’ taxi. It is the only trustful one. Always ask driver to open the meter, you wouldn’t believe the prices but yes transportation is very cheap in Bali. Sometimes driver comes with prices, don’t believe in them and say the quarter of what they said, even thought it is sound cheaper to you. One night from Seminyak high street to our hotel, we paid 30.000 INR and next day another driver said 100.000 INR, we said it is 30.000 INR and insist on the price and he kicked us out. I guess he is one & only rude man in the island. Yes bargaining with taxi drivers as well. 

Ada icinde seyahat kolay degil ama cok ucuz. Araba kiralamayi dusunmeyin bile. Bali icinde araba kullanmak hem cok zor hem de cok fazla trafik var ve yollar hep tek serit. Duble yolun nimet oldugunu ben orada anladim. Eger yol-yon biliyorsaniz motor kiralayabilirsiniz ama yinede tavsiye etmem. Cunku acikcasi adada trafik kurali yok, bazen hic beklenmedik bir yerden bir motor aniden onunuze cikabiliyor. Her otelde soforlu araba kiralama hizmeti mevcut ve tum gun Avrupa fiyatlarina kiyasla rakamlar gercekten cok komik. Taksi ise diger alternatif ama ama ‘bluebird’ marka olanlari. En guvenilir olani o. Her zaman taksimetreyi acmalarini isteyin, rakamlara inanmayacaksiniz ama evet Bali’de ulasim cok ucuz. Bazen taksi soforleri taksimetreyi acmadan kendileri fiyat onerisinde bulunuyor, inanmayin ve bunun ceyregini soyleyin, size cok az gelse de. Bir gece Seminyak merkezden otele 30.000 INR verdik, ertesi gece ayni istikamet icin taksicinin biri 100.000 INR istedi ve bizde 30.000 INR’de israr edince, adam bizi arabadan kovdu. Galiba adadaki tek kaba insan odur. Evet, taksicilerle bile pazarlik yapin. 

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                                                                                      Monkey Forest

Before you visit, plan what are up to. Because Bali is full with everything; beach and natural holidays, shopping, spa resorts, water and natural activities, mountain hiking. On the map you may find them very close to each other. In the reality yes they are not far far from eachother but two things need to be consider; 1- traffic due to the one way roads, 2- humidity and crowd make you dizzy and tired. I made my bucket list map and in according to me everything was doable during our short visit. Unfortunatelly I miss traffic and weather therefore we postponed the to another visit. Inshallah! 

111Watch ‘Eat,Pray’ Love’ before go. 

Bali’ye gitmeden once kafanizda planinizi iyice yapin. Cunku Bali’de hersey var; kumsal ve doga tatili, alisveris, spa, doga ve su aktiviteleri, dag yuruyusleri. Haritada hersey birbirine cok yakin gozukuyor. Evet gercekte de mesafeler uzak degil ama iki konu var ki goz ardi edilmemeli! 1- tek seritli trafik, 2- nem ve kalabalik, sizi yorgun ve bitap birakiyor. Ben gitmeden kendi seyahat haritami yapmistim ve bana gore bizim kisa gezimizde hersey yapilabilirdi. Malesef ki, ben havayi ve trafigi gozardi etmistim boyle olunca bazi seyler bir sonraki seyahata kaldi. Insallah! 

Gitmeden  ‘Ye, Dua et, Sev’ filmini izleyin.

First of all, 1 week or 10 days are enough to explore Bali like Balinese in a slow motion. I guess it should be like this way. In the hotels there are many tours you could get but dont forget renting a car is cheaper and you can go where ever you want with him. 

Oncelikle, bir hafta ya da 10 gun Bali’yi Balililer gibi yavas bicimde yasamak icin yeterli. Bence de zaten bu sekilde olmali. Otellerde katilabileceginiz bircok tur imkani var ama unutmayin ki Bali’de araba kiralamak cok ucuz ve gitmek istediginiz her yere bu sekilde gidebilirsiniz. 

2c66-ec22-d5e1-c5c3Bali is divided into five region; south, west, north, central (Ubud) and east. Most of the touristic attractions are on south and central Bali. We stay in south and Ubud regions. For me I love Ubud mostly and beaches on south east as well.

Bali kendi icinde bes bolgeye ayriliyor; güney, bati, kuzey, merkez (Ubud) ve dogu. Bircok turistik atraksiyon ise guney ve merkezde. Biz guneyde ve Ubud bolgelerinde kaldik. Ben Ubud’u ve guney dogudaki sahilleri daha cok sevdim. 

ANorth Bali has black sand beaches and old capital city. This might be interesting. 

West Bali has Natural park and untouched sandy beaches and nice bays. Good side of the island for hiking and enjoying beautiful beaches. I put this part on my bucket list. 

Kuzey Bali’de siyah kumsallar ve eski baskent var. Buralar ilgileneler icin etkileyici olabilir. 

Bati Bali’de ‘Dogal Park’ ve bakir kumsallar ile guzel koylar mevcut. Burasi yuruyus ve guzel kumsallarin keyfini cikarmak isteyenler icin guzel bir bolge. Burasi benim olmeden once yapilacaklar listemde. 

South Bali is the heart of Bali also most visited region. Denpasar Airport in the South as well. Kuta, Seminyak, Jimbaran, Uluwatu, Legian are in here. Kuta is the heart of the island with shopping and nights and beautiful beaches and also most famous part of the island. Kuta, Legian and Seminyak are very close to each other. Both Kuta and Seminyak has very nice restaurants and stores and even also galleries. We stayed in Seminyak at first and found it very western rather than Balinese. 

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Guney Bali, adanin kalbi ayni zamanda en cok ziyaret edilen bolgesi. Denpasar Havalimani da guneyde. Kuta, Seminyak, Jimbaran, Uluwatu, Legian bolgeleri de yine guneyde yer aliyor. Kuta alisveris, geceleri ve guzel kumsallari ile adanin kalbi ve en meshur yeri. Kuta, Seminyak ve Jimbaran birbirlerine cok yakin bolgeler. Kuta ve Seminyak’ta cok guzel restaurantlar ve magazalar hatta sanat galerileri var. Biz ilk basta Seminyak’ta kaldik ve Bali’ye gore biraz batili bulduk. 

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                                                                                Tanah Lot

If you want to enjoy Bali, stay in Kuta where the most famous part of Bali. If you want to discover and live Bali go to Ubud or Nusa Dua or Gigi Island. Food and shopping are cheaper in Seminyak.

Eger Bali’de eglenmek istiyorsaniz Bali’nin en meshur yeri olan Kuta’da kalin. Ama eger Bali’yi yasamak ve kesfetmek istiyorsaniz Ubud veya Nusa Dua or Gigi Ada’sina gidin. Yemek ve alisveris Seminyak’ta Kuta’ya oranla daha ucuz.

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If you stay in Seminyak, you could visit Jatiluwih Rice Terrace is placed under the foot of Batukaru Mountain. Panorama is splendid, mountains and endless green of terraces mesmerise you. Rice terrace is under Unesco World Heritage Designation because of untouched and even still today it is cultivated in IMG_2145traditional manner without chemical fertilisers. There are hiking path inside the terraces for travellers. Famous water temple Pura Ulun Danu and the second largest lake of Bali Bratan Lake are an hour drive away from Jatiluwih. If you make it in sunset, you would be very lucky to get amazing photos. Git git waterfalls is an half hour drive towards to north from lake and it is one of the worth seeing place in Bali. Actually there are several Git git waterfall in Bali, one in Denpasar as well. The one in the north has natural park around it and you get a change to explore Bali’s agriculture while walking towards to waterfalls. From cacao trees to vanilla trees and coconuts and many others. There are two waterfall close by to each other. After this long day, coffee would be very good. But only Luwak coffee! Famous Balinese coffee, fertiliser by Luwak animal. Don’t be scared, it tastes same as any other coffee. Also you get a chance to try other Balinese coffees too, my second favourite one is coconut coffee which is a bit sweet also has very nice aroma in it. On the way back you would catch the sunset in Tanah Lot. It is one of the most spectacular sunset I had. If you lucky you may get local Balinese dans show; Kecak Dance. All the places I wrote doable in one day. We did. 

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                                                                                           Tanah Lot

Eger Seminyak’ta kalirsaniz, Batukaru Dagi’nin eteklerinden yer alan Jatiluwih Pirinc Teraslarini ziyaret edebilirsiniz. Manzara mukemmel, daglar ve sonsuza uzanan yesil tarlalar 5a5c-924e-6ef7-5a11aklinizi basinizdan alabiliyor. Pirinc tarlasi Unesco Dunya korumasi altindaki ozel yerdenden biri, neden mi ? bugun bile halen bakir kalabilmis olan tarlalar hicbir sekilde kimyasal ilaclama uygulanmadan geleneksel yontemler ile islenmeye devam ediyor. Gezginler icin teraslarin icinde yurus rotalari cizilmis. Meshur su tapinagi olarak bilinen Pura Ulun Danu Tapinagi ve Bali’nin ikinci en buyuk golu olan Bratan Golu ise Jatiluwih’den sadece 1 saat uzaklikta. Eger gun batiminda giderseniz, cok guzel resimler cekebileceginiz bir yer. Git git Selaleleri ise kuzeye dogru golden sadece yarim saat uzaklikta ve Bali’deki gorulmeye deger bir yerlerden biri. Aslinda Bali’de birden fazla Git Git Selaleleri var, hatta bir tane de Denpasar’da var. Kuzeyde olan bu selale dogal bir parkin icinde ve selaleye dogru giderken Bali’de yetisen tum bitki turlerini gorme sansini elde ediyorsunuz. Kakao agacindan vanilya agaclarina, hindistan cevizlerine kadar hepsi var. Bu uzun gunden sonra guzel bir kahve iyi gider her halde. Ama tabii ki de ‘Luwak kahvesi’ hani su Luwak hayvani tarafindan gubrelendirilmis olan meshur Bali kahvesi. Korkmayin, tadi ayni diger kahveler gibi, hicbir farki yok. Ayrica diger meshur Bali kahvelerinide deneyebilirsiniz, benim 2. favori kahvem ise Hindistan cevizli olan, biraz sekerli ayni zamanda hos bir aromasi var. Donus yolunda ise Tanah Lot’ta gunbatimini izleyebilirsiniz. Izledigim en guzel gunbatimlarindan biriydi diyebilirim. Eger zamaniniz ve sansiniz yaver giderse, meshur Bali dansi olan Kecak Dansini da izleyebilirsiniz. Yazdiklarimin hepsi bir gunde yapilabilir. Biz yaptik. 

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After this long day, dinner in high street of Seminyak would be good. My recommendations are Chandi as traditional Indonesian food (best restaurant in Seminyak) and La Sal for Spanish and Trattoria as Italian cuisine. 

60a8-a972-cdeb-f8dfBu uzun gunun sonunda ise Seminyak’da ana caddede guzel bir yerde guzel bir yemek fena olmaz. Benim tavsiyelerim ise; geleneksel Endonezya yemegi olarakChandi (Seminyak’taki en iyi restaurant), Ispanyol mutfagi olarak; La Sal, Italyan mutfagi olarak ise; Trattoria

If we head to south, beaches and resorts are dominating. Personally I prefer hotels with beach rather than public ones because public ones are more crowded and unfortunately dirty. Jimbaran and Nusa Dua and Uluwatu are beach & resort areas. Nusa Dua is quieter than others and mostly prefer by families. It has less rocky beaches than Jimbaran and Uluwatu. Jimbaran is in between Kuta and Central Bali therefore it is one of the most popular areas and same as Seminyak mostly chose by youths. In Uluwatu and Jimbaran most of the hotels are on top of the rocky cliffs with splendid ocean views and beaches are accessible with stairs and lift, the atmosphere you will see is invaluable. A hidden sandy beaches of paradise welcomes you in out of nowhere. I have to say, keep your expectation lower about sea in terms of over Turkish and European. Bali has so much waves and tides. Most of the time you see red flag for ‘not swimming’ sign. I swam with so much effort in the waves and 10 mins later I left the see, there were fishermen catching fish with sea level on their knees. I couldnot even believe how it could be possible but tides are so much. 

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Guneye dogru inmeye basladigimiz zaman plajlar ve tatil koyleri yogunlasmaya basliyor. Ben sahsen sahili olan otelleri tercih ederim cunku halk plajlari hem cok kalabalik hem de malesef ki pislerdi. Jimbaran, Nusa Dua ve Uluwatu’da bircok plaj ve otel mevcut. Nusa Dua diger ikisine gore daha sakin ve genelde aileler tarafindan tercih ediliyor. Jimbaran ve Uluwatu’ya kiyasla daha az kayalikli sahilleri var. Jimbaran ise Kuta ile Bali merkez bolgesi arasinda yer aliyor, boyle olunca en populer yerlerden biri oluyor ve yine Seminyak gibi daha cok gencler tarafindan tercih ediliyor. Uluwatu ve Jimbaran’da bircok otel kayaliklarin tepesinde muhtesem okyanus manzarali ve sahillere asansor yada merdiven ile ulasiliyor, karsilasacaginiz atmosfer ise paha bicilmez. Cennetin gizlenmis kumsallari bir anda karsiniza cikip sizi selamliyor. Sunu da soylemeliyim ki, Turkiye ve Avrupa’daki denizlere kiyasla beklentilerinizi alcak tutun. Bali’de cok fazla dalga ve gelgit var, hatta gun icinde gelgitten dolayi ‘yuzulemez’ isareti olan kirmizi bayragi cok sik goruyorsunuz. Dalgalarinin yogunlugundan dolayi ciddi efor sarfederek yuzup sonra denizden ciktiktan 10 dk sonra geri donup bir baktim ki o da ne! balikcinin biri beni zar zor gittigim mesafede diz boyunda durarak balik tutuyor. Gelgitlerin bu kadar yogun ve ciddi olabilicegini tahmin bile edemezdim. 

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jklPadang Padang beach is got its fame after movie ‘Eat, Pray. Love’  and Suluban beach have blocked with rocky-like entrance and again view is speechless. They are only 10 mins away from Uluwatu Temple. After beaches you could watch sunset in Uluwatu temple on top of the rocky mountains with wild monkeys. The monkeys are in here are not very friendly, they may steal your items or even hit you. My friend, Randa said she had flip flop with flowers on it, one monkey, probably female one came and try to grab it and couldn’t make it, when she realised she couldn’t get it and she pissed off and scratched her, she got blushed. Another Git git waterfall is in Denpasar, if you have time, you may add this to your daily agenda. As I said, there are several Git git waterfall in the island. 

Padang Padang Sahili, ‘Ye, Dua et, Sev’ filminden sonra cok meshur oldu. Suluban Sahili ve burasinin girisleri sanki buyuk kayaliklarla kapatilmis3 gibi ve girince gordugunuz manzara yine harika. Bu iki kumsal da Uluwatu Tapinagi’ndan sadece 10 dk uzaklikta. Sahilin keyfini cikardiktan sonra cilgin maymunlarla birlikte kayaliklarin tepesindeki Uluwatu Tapinagi’nda gunbatimini seyredebilirsiniz. Buradaki maymunlarin dost canlisi oldugu pek soylenemez, esyalarinizi calabilir hatta size vurabilirler. Arkadasim Randa gittiginde uzerinde cicek olan bir parmak arasi terlik giymis ve muhtemelen disi bir maymun gelip cicegi almaya calismis, alamayinca sinirlenmis ve Randa’nin ayagini tirmalamis, kizin ayagi kizarmis. Bir diger Git Git Selalesi de Denpasar’da, eger zamaniniz varsa buraya da gidebilirsiniz. Dedigim gibi adada birden fazla Git Git Selasi var. 

At night if you stay in Jimbaran, you could have your dinner in any fish restaurant in high street. If you stay in Nusa Dua, strongly recommend Dulang restaurant in St Regis Hotel, it is one of the best Indonesian restaurant you could every try. 

Aksam icin ise, eger Jimbaran’da kaliyorsaniz ana caddede ki her hangi bir balik restorantini deneyebilirsiniz. Eger Nusa Dua taraflarindaysaniz, St Regis Otel’de kiDulang Restoranini oneririm, deneyebileceginiz en mukemmel Endonezya restorani. 

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UBUD

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Now we are leaving to central Bali, my favourite part of island. Ubud is more bohemian, more spectacular area comparing to other side of island. Ubud is more nature, more calm area, it is place you meditating with your own inner self, somewhere I never wanted to leave but I have job is waiting for me to work and save money for new adventures. But just because of Ubud I am going to come again. Ubud is famous with spa & detox hotels, unlike south no beach only trees and mountains. 

Simdi biz Orta Bali’ye dogru yola cikiyoruz ki burasi benim adadaki en sevdigim yer oldu. Ubud, adanin diger yerlerine gore daha bir bohem daha bir guzel. Ubud daha bir doga, daha sakin bir yer, kendi ic dunyaniz ile meditasyon yaptiginiz, benim asla ayrilmak istemedigim bir yerdi ama beni bekleyen bir isim ve yeni maceralar icin para biriktirmem gerekiyor. Galiba sirf Ubud icin bile tekrar gelebilirim. Ubud daha cok spa & detoks otelleri ile unlu, guneyin aksine burada sahil yok sadece agaclar ve daglar. 

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                                                                        Tegenungan Waterfall 

Ubud is also famous with wood craft and furniture, it is exporting to world. In the central you may see so many hand made wood shop and art galleries. Places you could get souvenirs with good prices.

Ayrica Ubud, ahsap isciligi ve mobilyaciligi ile de unlu, tum dunyaya ihrac ediyorlar. Sehir merkezinde cok fazla el yapimi ahsap dukkan ve galeri gorebilirsiniz. Ucuza hediyeler alabileginiz guzel yerler. 

64e3-418e-8633-9026Monkey Forest is must seen place in Ubud. It gives you a feeling that you visit their houses for short visit. Sometimes they might be aggressive but mostly they are harmless. Sarawasti Temple (Ubud Palace) is another worth seeing temple with lotus flowers and pods in Ubud center. Tegenungan Waterfall is only 30 mins away from Monkey Forest. You can swim and sunbath in the waterfall and enjoy the view cafe on top. I enjoy so much in here.  Tegalalang Rice Terrace is 1 hour from Ubud central and for me it is more beautiful than Jatiluwih Rice Terrace. You see real terrace on the mountain skirts. Tucked Cepud Waterfall is 1 hour from from Monkey Forest and should seen too.  Batur Lake and Batur mountain are another beauty. And also they are 1 hour away from Ubud central. Mountain and  green surrounding areas after eruption surprise you. Also in Ubud  you could do white water rafting. Of course you cannot make them in one day, in fast track version I would suggest 2 days but if you wish Balinese way make it in 3 days with enjoyment. 

Ubud denince akla ilk gelen sey ‘Maymun Ormani’ ve muhakkak gorulmesi gereken bir yer. Sanki onlarin evlerine kucuk bir ziyaret yapmissiniz gibi bir his veriyor. Bazen az da olsa agresif af13-d987-a2e9-5dc4olsalar da genelde zararsizlar. Ubud merkezde bulunan icinden nilufer cicekleri ve havuzlarin oldugu Sarawasti Tapinagi (Ubud Sarayi) ise gorulmeye deger guzel bir tapinak. Tegenungan Selalesi ise Monkey Forest’tan 30 dk uzaklikta. Yuzebileceginiz, guneslenebileceginiz hatta tepeden harika bir manzara yakalayabileceginiz bir yer burasi ve ben cok keyif almistim. Tegalalang Pirinc Tarlasi ise Ubud merkezden sadece 1 saat uzaklikta ve bence Jatiluwuh pirinc tarlasindan daha guzel. Daglarin eteklerinde gercek teraslari gorebilirsiniz. Tucked Cepud Selalesi de Monkey Forest’dan 1 saat uzaklikta. Batur Golu ve Batur Dagi ise ayri bir guzellik ve bunlarda Ubud merkezden 1 saat uzaklikta. Volkanik patlamadan sonra olusan alanlar ve yesillikler sizi gercekten sasirtiyor. Ayrica Ubud’dawhite water rafting denilen beyaz nehirde rafting yapabilirsiniz. Tabii ki de bunlar bir gune sigmiyor, bence hizli bir sekilde iki gune sigar ama Bali usulu isterseniz 3 gunde keyif alarak yapin derim. 

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                                                              Tegalalang Rice Terrace / Pirinc Tarlası

After mentioning famous rice terraces; no need to mentioned that rice is the main food in Indonesian cuisine. They eat rice even in breakfast. In Indonesia every region or island has their own cuisine but more less they have similarities.

O kadar pirinc tarlalarinda bahsettikten sonra ana yemeklerinin pirincli yemekler oldugundan ayrica bahsetmeye gerek yoktur herhalde. Kahvalti da bile pilav yeniyor. Endonezya’da her bolge ya da adanin kendine ait bir mutfagi var ama az cok benzerlikler var. 

IMG_3557For food, I am very open person, could eat anything I found as long as Halal. On this trip we had an opportunity to try new tastes as well. Main ingredients are rice, coconut, banana and national vegetables. Nasi Goreng is famous dish known very well by foreigners. It is made with fried rice side vegetables, egg and meat / chicken/ shrimp and crakers. Bebek Goreng is famous duck dish and you should try it. Sate is roasted skewered meat / chicken. Kerupuk is my favourite one, it is a cracker but serves almost with every food. Ox tail soup is famous soup with vegetables. Otak otak is rice and fish wrapped in banana leaf, my another favourite one. As desert they mainly use rice and coconut.  If you find pinky fruit juice in coconut, don’t leave the country without trying it. 

Since Indonesia is in tropical zone, there are many tropical fruits: dragon fruit, coconut, mango, yellow watermelon, passion fruits but there are uniques only for 53f6-0720-2f41-6bd5Indonesia. Salak is the traditional fruit, known as snake fruit. You may see it every street vendor and even hotel welcomings. I like it but more I like is mangosteem. It is another best thing I ever tried.

IMG_3568Yemek konusunda ben cok acik biriyimdir, ne bulursa yiyenlerdenim, Helal oldugu surece tabii. Bu seyahatta da yeni tadlar deneme sansimiz oldu. Yemeklerde ki ana malzemeler; pirinc, hindistan cevizi, muz ve yerel sebzeler. Nasi Goreng yabancilar tarafindan bilinen en meshur yemek. Kizartilmis pilav, yanina sebze, yumurta ve et / tavuk / karides ve cips ile yapiliyor.  Bebek Goreng ise bir diger meshur yemekleri ve ordek ile yapiliyor, denemelisiniz. Sate, kizarmis sis et / tavuk yemegi. Kerupuk, benim en sevdigim, yemek degil cips ama her yemekle birlikte veriliyor. Dana kuyrugu corbasi sebzeler ile birlikte yapilan meshur bir corba. Otak otak pirinc ve baligin muz yapragina sarilarak sunulan yerel bir yemek. Tatli olarakda genellikle pirinc ve hindistan cevizi kullaniliyor. Eger bulabilirseniz hindistan cevizi icinde sunulan pembe renkli meyve salatasi serbetini denemeden ulkeden ayrilmayin. 

What else to do in Bali ? 

8fd6467832202bd8d6200448576f5542Batik and silversmith. Batik in Bali is under Unesco World Heritage. Have a visit to Batik and silversmith workshops, watch their process and buy real handmade nice cloths with very good price. 

Also stone or hand made wood house items from Ubud. 

Bali’de baska ne yapilir ? 

Batik ve gumus isciligi. Bali’deki batik Unesco Dunya Korumasi altinda. Firsatiniz olur da batik ve gumus atolyelerine gidip, nasil yapildiklarini izleyin ve cok uygun fiyatlara el yapimi harika batikler alabilirsiniz. 

Ayrica Ubud’dan da tas ve el yapimi ahsap ev esyasi alabilirsiniz. 

nAnd of course massage. You would get best massage of your life within very crazy prices. Almost every hotel has very nice and wide variety of massage. Even in street you see massage saloons just next to posh restaurant. It is very normal to see that on one side people having their dinner and on the other some people put their feet in to tank  full with fish for cleaning their feet while waiting for their turn for massage in inside. It is better to check advanced on online hotels for massage and discounts. Hanging Gardens in Ubud has very good massage, they use their own garden products for soup and creams. Ritz Carlton is famous with award wining massage.  

Ve tabii ki de, masaj. Hayatinizda ki en guzel masajlari cok uygun fiyatlara yaptirabilirsiniz. Hemen hemen tum otellerde hem uygun hem de farkli alternatifleri olan masaj imkanlari mevcut. Sokakta bile luks bir restaurantin yaninda masaj salonlarini gorebilirsiniz. Bir tarafta insanlar yemekleri yerken diger tarafta insanlar icinde baliklarin olduklari tanklara ayaklarini koyup iceride ki masaj icin siralarini beklerken gormeniz cok normal bir durum. Onceden online kampanyalara ve rezervasyonlara bakmak lazim. Ubud’daki Hanging Gardens’da ki masaji tavsiye ederim, bahselerinde yetistirdikleri urunleri krem ve sabunlarinda kullaniyorlar. Ritz Carlton ise odullu masaji ile unlu. 

iI used to hear and read about ‘how Bali makes you different person in a spiritual way, how it makes you more wiser’ found them a bit exaggeration. This is moment Fatma was totally wrong. My short holiday made me understand one more time that ‘money is not the source of happiness’ after I seen Balinese people’ humbleness and hard workings without any complaining. Also ‘respect’ is not something we learn in the school, neither anywhere else, it is attached to our veins. No matter what happens they never loose their respect because its their cmajor value. Different religious with harmonies. Kindness must be their nickname or life code, otherwise their endless politeness cannot be understand.

Daha onceleri ‘Bali seni ruhani yonde nasil daha farkli bir insan yapar, nasil daha bilge yapar’ gibi soylemleri duyup okumustum ama hepsini biraz abarti bulmustum. Iste burasi Fatma’nin tamamen yanildigini an. Bali’nin insanlarindaki mutevaziligi ve hic sikayet etmeden bitmek bilmez caliskanligi gordukten sonra bu kisa seyahatimde bir kez daha anladim ki ‘para, mutlulugun kaynagi degil’. Ayrica ‘saygi’ bizim okulda ya da baska bir yerde ogrenebilecegimiz birsey degilmis, damarlarimizda olan birseymis. Ne olursa olsun asla saygilarini kaybetmiyorlar cunku bu onlarin en temel degerleri. Farkli dinlerin harmoni icindeler. Kibarlik ise ya lakablari ya da yasam kodlari, yoksa sonsuz nezaketin baska bir aciklamasi olamaz. 

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At the airport, there was a Australian girl next to me on the check-in counter and she asked ‘has she ever been in Bali’ and she answered ‘I have been here before many times and I come here as much as I could’. I found it interesting and said to Norah ‘why a person comes here frequently’ because personally I don’t prefer to go places  I have been before. But while were leaving to Yogyakarta, I said ‘I am going to come again and again’. 

In Bali you learn ‘patience, respect, humbleness, less caring the world, being less selfish. I stay short but learn a lot. Inshallah will not forget them. Bali got it’s place ‘to see again and again’ for me and should be ‘must seen place’ for you.

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Havalimaninda check-in sirasinda yanimda Avustralyali bir kadin vardi, gorevli kadina ‘daha once Bali’ye geldiniz mi?’ diye sordu ve kadinda ‘daha once cok geldim ve her firsatta gelmeye calisiyorum’ dedi. Tuhaf geldi ve Norah’a ‘neden insan bir yere bu kadar sik gelmek ister ki’ dedim cunku ben daha once bulundugum bir yere tekrar tekrar gitmek pek tercih ettigim bir sey degildir. Ama simdi biz Yogyakarta icin ayriliyoruz ve ben de ‘tekrar tekrar gelicem’ dedim ve hic ayrilmak istemedim.

Bali’de ‘sabretmeyi, saygi duymayi, tevazuyu, dunyaya daha az deger vermeyi ve daha az bencil olmayi ogreniyorsunuz. Kisa kaldim ama cok sey ogrendim. Insallah unutmam. Bali benim icin ‘tekrar tekrar gorulecekler listesinde’ yerini aldi ve sizin icinde ‘muhakkak gorulecek listesinde’ yerini almali… 

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