PARIS


 

                                                             ‘Paris is always a good idea

                                                          ‘Paris  her zaman guzel bir fikir’2

Once a friend told me ‘Paris is the city, you always find things to do and it is where you always want to go again and again. If New York is the image for modern world, Paris is for old one.’ On that time, I did not paid enough attentions about praised for Paris. Somehow I always postponed Paris later and later. But last week I always questioned myself ‘why Fatma. why ? How come on earth I didn’t come to this magnificent city before. I never thought Paris would be this much beautiful, never thought I would be attached the city this much. Every day I said to myself ‘I am going to come again in summer just for parks and streets, and of course for picnicking. 

Bir keresinde bir arkadasim ‘Paris, oyle bir sehir ki her zaman yapacacak birseyler buluyorsun ve her zaman tekrar tekrar gitmek istersin. Eger New York modern dunyanin semboluyse, Paris ise eskinin’. O zaman Paris ile ilgili guzellemelere pek kulak asmamistim. Paris’i nedense hep sonraya erteledim. Ama gecen hafta surekli kendi kendimi sorguladim, ‘neden Fatma, neden? Bi de bana bakim’ Nasil oluyorda ben bu kadar guzel bir sehre bu kadar gec kaldim? Paris’in bu kadar guzel olabilecegini asla tahmin edemezdim. Bu sehre bu kadar baglanabilecegimi asla tahmin edemezdim. Gezdigim her gun kendime ‘yazin yine gelicem, bu sefer parklar ve sokaklar icin ve tabiiki de piknik yapmak icin. 

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Before I start about my travel I want to make some points clear.  

People used to say about Frenchs ‘they are rude to foreigners, they don’t speak English. They are not helpful to anybody. City is old, stinky and dirty’ and etc. 

Clearly none of them are true. French are very sweat and helpful. They speak English and love communicating with you. When they learn that we are Turkish, they even start speaking some Turkish worlds. City is not dirty neither stinky. There against it extremely beautiful city. 

If you have any single question mark about France, cross them and book your first trip to Paris and see the most romantic and beautiful city in the world by yourself.  

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Seyahatime baslamadan once birkac konuya netlik kazandirmak isterim. 

Fransizlar icin ‘yok yabancilara karsi hep kabalar yok Ingilizce konusmuyorlar. Kimseye yardim etmiyorlar. Sehir eski, kokuyor ve kirli’ vs.

Acikca soyleyeyim ki bunlarin hicbiri dogru degil. Fransizlar cok tatli ve yardimseverler. Ingilizce konusuyorlar ve sizinle sohmet etmekten hoslaniyorlar. Turk oldugumuzu ogrendiklerinde ise hemen bildikleri Turkce kelimeleri soylemeye basliyorlar. Sehir ne kirli ne de kokuyor. Aksine harika guzel bir sehir. 

Eger Fransa ile ilgili her hangi bir sorunuz varsa, uzerini cizin ve hemen bir sonraki seyahatinizi Paris’e duzenleyip dunyadaki en guzel ve romantik sehri kendiniz gorun. 

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And, and how about mine ? 

Of course fabulous with countless steps and plenty of food. 

Ve, ve peki ya benimkisi nasildi ?

Tabiki de harikaydi, sayisiz adimin ve bolca yemegin oldugu.

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I usually made my own map before I travel and mostly focus on places but this time colours for food are more than tourist attraction. I wasn’t sure which one I should focus on more. museums ? streets ? food ?

IMG_1485Usually 3-4 days are enough for many cities but except Paris. This city has lots of things to do and you need much days. 

Ben genellikle seyahate cikmadan once kendi haritami yaparim ve genellikle gorulecek yerlere odaklanirim. Ama bu sefer yemek icin olan renkler turistlik yerlerinden daha fazla oldu. Hangisine odaklanacagima emin olamadim. Muzeler mi ? Sokaklar mi ? Yemek mi ? 

Normalde bircok sehir icin 3-4 gun yeter de artar ama Paris icin asla. Bu sehirde yapilacak o kadar cok sey varki, cok fazla gune ihtiyaciniz oluyor. 

I prefer shoulder seasons for visit but this time I had so much regret because Paris was very cold. It was even snowed while we were there. I always said this city would be much more charming when trees are green. All the time I dreamed myself picnicing in the parks. Maybe next summer. Who knows… 

April to May or September would be the best times. 

Ben seyahatlerim icin sakin sezonlari tercih ederim ama bu sefer cok pisman oldum cunku Paris buz gibiydi. Kar bile yagdi biz oradayken. Her zaman dedigim gibi bu sehir agaclar yesilken cok daha guzel olurdu. Tum zaman boyunca kendimi parklarda piknik yaparken hayal ettim. Belki onumuzdeki yaz, kim bilir…

Nisan- Mayis yada Eylul gitmek icin harika zamanlar. 

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For accomadation; if you want to stay in luxury and quite neighbourhood, 16th arrondissement (almost every place has Eiffel Tower view, or walking distance) is good choice.Either George V for busy and posh district. If you want to enjoy all the famous cafes and galleries and be close by to touristic place, Saint German is great location.

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If you prefer to share the joy of new popular neighbourhood of Paris, this time I would recommend Le Marais where full with traditional Parisian houses with irony balconies.

If it is your first time visit, I would recommend Saint German. 

Konaklama icin; Eger luks ve sakin bie murid isterseniz, 16. mahalle (hemen hemen tum evlerin Eiffel manzarasi var yada kisa bir yurume mesafesinde) guzel bir tercih olur. Yada kalabalik ve havali bir bolge olarak George V olabilir. Eger meshur kafelerin  ve galerilerin keyfini cikarip, turistik mekanlara yakin olmak isterseniz, Saint German harika bir lokasyon.

Ama eger Paris’in yeni populer muhitinin keyfine ortak olmak isterseniz bu seferde demir balkonlarinin ile geleneksel Paris evlerinin oldugu Le Marais’i oneririm. 

Eger ilk seyahatinizse, Saint German’i tavsiye ederim. 

Paris metro is very wide naturally it is a bit complex at the beginning. I have to warn you, Paris metros are very hectic for luggages. Metros are old and most them have stairs not escalator. If you carrying luggage, don’t even think of entering metro. Either get taxi or uber. We used uber in Paris most of the time. It is much cheaper than taxi on long distance but in short distance it is exactly same with taxi. 

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Also I recommend to buy ‘carnet’ for metro. It is 10 single tickets, around 14€, otherwise single ticket is 1.90€. Don’t even bother to get daily tickets because touristic places are all walking distance to each other. Every tourist attraction in zone 1, except Versaille Palace and Disneyland.

Paris metrosu cok genis ve hali ile baslarda biraz karisik olabilir. Uyarayim, metro valiz tasimasi konusunda cok fena. Metrolar eski ve bircogunda sadece merdiven var, yuruyen merdiven yok. Eger valizin varsa, hic metrodan iceri girmeyi dusunmeyin bile. Taksi yada Uber kullanin. Paris’te kaldigimiz sure boyunca cogunlukla Uber kullandik. Uzun mesafede taksiye kiyasla cok ucuz ama kisa mesafelerde taksi ile ayni fiyat. 

Ayrica metro icin ‘carnet’ dedikleri 14€’si 10 taneden olusan tek kullanimlik biletleri kullanmanizi tavsiye ederim. Aksi halde tek bilet 1.90 €. Hic gunluk bilet almayi dusunmeyin cunku bircok turistlik yerler birbirlerine yurume mesafesi uzaklikta. Tum turistlik atraksiyonlar Zone 1’de (1. bolgede). Versay Sarayi ve Disneyland haric. 

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For Versaille, St-Michel or Musee d’Orsay (yellow line from them). Versaille is the last stop and after station you only walk 5 minutes. This yellow line is the best one for Versaille. 

For Disneyland; red line from Chatelet or Gare de Lyon. 

One stop before Disneyland, La Vallee Village outlet. It is very big and lots of designer brands have shop in there. Prices are very reasonable. If you are intending to shop, I advise you to check this outlet. 

In any station you must get return tickets for both destinations. 

Versay Sarayi icin; St-Michel yada Musee d’Orsay’dan gecen sari hat. Versay son durak ve istasyondan sonra sadece 5 dakika yuruyorsunuz. Versay icin bu sari hat en iyisi. 

Disneyland icin; Chalet yada Gare de Lyon’dan gecen kirmizi hat. 

Disneyland’dan bir durak once La Vallee Village outlet var. Burasi cok buyuk ve bircok unlu markanin magazasi var. Fiyatlar ise uygun, eger alisveris yapmak niyetiniz varsa buraya bakin derim. 

Her iki destinasyon icin ise her hangi bir istasyondan gidis-gelis bilet almalisiniz. 

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 For now, shall we go with food or museum first ? 

If we are in Paris, food shall be first… 

Simdi, once yemekten mi baslayalim muzelerden mi ? 

Eger Paris’teysek, yemek once olmali…

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French cuisine may not be as wide and crazy as Turkish cuisine despite to this it has vast variety of alternatives. Some are need big courage to try. I convinced myself so badly for snail before I go but I couldn’t try. In Marrakesh, I wanted to try snail soup but neither the soup I couldn’t try and this time I said ‘you should at least try the food’  however same ending. Next time Fatma…

Fransiz mutfagi, Turk mutfagi kadar genis ve cilgin olmayabilir ama buna ragmen cok genis bir alternatif yelpazesine sahipler. Bazilari ise cok ciddi cesaret istiyor. Kendimi salyangoz yeme konusunda gitmeden cok ciddi cesaretlendirmistim ama yapamadim. Marakes’te salyangoz corbasini denemek istemistim ama maalesef orada da beceremedim ama bu sefer ‘en azindan yemegi denemelisin’ diye kendimi ikna ettigimi dusunmdum lakin sonuc yine ayni oldu. Artik bir daha ki sefere Fatma… 

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Paris is famous with cafes  facing to street with small table and chairs next to each other. You feel very close to next tables. Sometimes I feel lucky that English is not my mother tongue. Imagine you don’t have any privacy, whatever you speak everybody understand you. But Turkish is very good for gossiping in narrow Parisian cafes.

Paris’in sokaga donuk kucuk kucuk masalarinin oldugu, sandalyelerin birbirine degdigi kafeleri meshur. Yan masaya cok fazla yakin oldugunuzu hissedersiniz. Bazen Ingilizce’nin ana dilim olmadigi icin kendimi sansli hissediyorum. Dusunsenize, hic mahremiyetiniz yok, konustugunuz herseyi herkes anliyor. Ama Turkce oyle mi, Paris’in dar kafelerinde dedikodu yapmak icin harika bir dil. 

Old famous cafes are all in Saint German. Here are some famous cafes favourite worth seeing one by me;

Eski ve meshur kafelerin hepsi Saint German’da. Benim gorulmeye deger dusundugum bazi unlu kafeler sunlar; 

  • Cafe de Flore; The most famous cafe where you should go at least once. As my cousin insists it has best ‘hot chocolate’ (my one is below). In here you may see famous people. One night while we were leaving, we faced with fashion icon Karl Lagerfeld. When you go, sit outside, enjoy chocolate and croissant. 
  •  Cafe de Flore; Paris’in en meshur kafesine en azindan bir kere gitmelisiniz. Kuzenimin iddiasina goreen guzel sicak cikolatada burada (benim favorim asagida). Kafede mutlaka unluleri gorursunuz. Bir aksam tam cikarken moda ikonu Karl Lagerfeld ile goz goze geldik. Gittiginiz zaman disarida oturun ve sicak cikolataniz ile krosanin keyfini cikarin. 
  • tyuLes Deux Magots; I like here more than Cafe de Flore. Breakfast we had in here, it was pretty good. Typical Turks go to cafe and order everything on the menu for breakfast while others have only coffee and croissant. We order so many things, waitress asked ‘are you waiting for 4th?’ we ‘no, just we’. Picture the astonishment on his face.
  • Les Deux Magots; Ben burayi Cafe de Flore’den daha cok sevdim. Burada yaptigimiz kahvalti gayet iyiydi. Tipik bir Turk bir kafeye kahvalti icin giderse ne olur ? herkes kahve ve krosan yerken o menude gordugu herseyi ister. Bizde de aynisi oldu, bircok sey siparis ettik ve garson ‘4. kisiyi bekliyor musunuz?’ diye sordu ve ‘yok, sadece biziz’ diyince adamin yuzundeki saskinligi tahmin edin. 
  • Le Germain; it is in Saint German too but open at 12.00 pm, pretty late for breakfast and excited tourist like me. It has very interesting decoration. Yellow woman sculpture welcomes you as soon as you walk in. 
  • Le Germain; Burasi da Saint German’da ama 12.00’da aciliyor ve benim gibi heyecanli turistlere gore kahvalti icin biraz gec. Iceri de ise cok degisik dekorasyonu var. Girer girmez karsinizda duran sari kocaman bir kadin heykeli sizi karsiliyor. 
  • Pailane; Paris’teki en iyi firin
  • Pailane; best bakery in Paris. 

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  • Angelina; address of the best best hot chocolate. As soon as you enter the cafe, scent of chocolate enfolding you. Yes, my favourite hot chocolate from Angelina. I advise you to try ‘Mont Blanc’ and eclair with hot chocolate. Also visit the one in Concorde, across to Jardin des Tuileries. 
  • Angelina; en mukemmel sicak cikotanin tek adresi. Kafeden iceri girer girmez cikolata kokusu sizi sarmaya basliyor zaten. Evet, benim favori sicak cikolatam Angelina’da. Sicak cikolatanizin yaninda ‘Mont Blanc’ ve ekleri tavsiye ederim. Ayrica Jardin des Tuileries’in karsisinda, Concorde’dakine gidin derim. 
  • Mariage Freres; best afternoon tea you could have in Paris. It has several around the city, also sells teas. Try the one close to Arc de Triomphe.

But if you purchase tea, of course Kusmi Tea. Especially Anastasia favour. 

  • Mariage Freres; Paris’te deneyebileceginiz en guzel 5 cayi. Sehrin bircok yerinde var ve cay da satiyorlar. Ben Arch de Triomphe’de bulunani tavsiye ederim.

Ama cay alicaksaniz, tabii ki de Kusmi Tea. Ozellikle Anastasia’yi deneyin. 

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  • Laduree; I still don’t know how to pronounce it. Since it is most famous one, somehow tourist feel oblige to go there even though waiting in the long queue. It is famous with macaron but not the best one. Laudee has the best omelette you could ever eat. Champs Elysees Laduree is the oldest and the best one. I in loved it interior decoration, typical French style. If you want to have weekend brunch, you should book in advanced, otherwise they may return you. 
  • Laduree’ Halen nasil telafuz ediliyor bilmiyorum. Sehrin en unlusu olunca, hali ile turistler gitme konusunda kendilerini zorunlu hissediyor, uzun sirada beklemek pahasina. Makaronu cok meshur ama daha guzelleri var. Laduree, yiyip yiyebileceginiz en guzel omlete sahip. Champs Elysees Laduree en eski ve en unlusu. Dekorasyona bayildim, tipik Fransiz stili. Eger hafta sonu brunchi istiyorsaniz, onceden rezervasyon yapmaniz lazim yoksa sizi reddedebilirler.  
  • Pierre Herme; even a person doesn’t like macaron loves Pierre Herme’s macaron. Macaron is too sweet for me  but Herme’s macaron is very soft and eatable. My favourite one is rose macaron. 
  • Pierre Herme; makaroni sevmeyen biri bile Pierre Herme’nin makoranlarina bayilabilir. Makaron bana gore cok sekerli ama Herme’s’nin makaronlari hem yumusak hemde yenebilir. Favorim ise gullu makaron. 

Other cafes from my list; dfgfgb

  • Odette 
  • Carette 
  • la maison du chocolat 

Listemdeki diger kafeler; 

  • Odette 
  • Carette 
  • la maison du chocolat

As I said, Paris is famous with cafes but we need more than coffee and croissant. I have some nice restaurant on my list too. But some tips; be patient with waitress, sometimes they could be rude. Personally I haven’t seen anything wrong. My cousin had several annoying experiences, he warmed me so much and whenever I went to restaurant, I waited waitress to replace me to somewhere else or ask me tips before serve but none of them happened. Contrariwise I seen very nice people. Again prejudice. In one famous restaurant my cousin went with booking, straight after they were seated, another waitress came and asked them to seat somewhere back of the restaurant and obviously they argued. But  comparing to his experiences I was fine. 

Dedigim gibi Paris kafeleri ile unlu ama bizim kahve ve krosandan daha fazlasina ihtiyacimiz var. Listemde guzel restorantlarda var. Ama birkac tuyo; garsonlar konusunda sabirli olun, bazen kaba olabiliyorlar. Ben kisisel olarak hicbir sikinti yasamadim. Ama kuzenin bir takim sinir edici deneyim yasamis, gitmeden beni nasil siki siki tembihlediyse, ne zaman bir restoranta gitsem her an bir garson gelip beni baska yere oturtacak diye bekler oldum ya da servis etmeden once bahsis istemelerini bekledim ama bunlarin hicbiri olmadi. Bunun aksine cok nazik insanlarla karsilastim. Yine onyargi! Unlu bir restorantta, kuzenim rezarvasyon ile gitti, masalarina oturur oturmaz baska bir garson geldi ve arka tarafta baska bir masaya oturmalarini istedi, tabii ki de kalkmadilar ve kavga ettiler. Onun deneyimlerine kiyasla ben son derece iyiydim. 
vbtMy top favourite restaurant is Ralph’s. Every penny I gave, was worth it. Amazing place and delicious food. You have to book in advanced, otherwise they refuse you. People go there mostly for burger but fish and starters even desserts are all amazing. 

Especially tea serving is best one. They bring caramelise popcorn with tea. I in loved with Ralph’s. Also comparing the food and serving, price is very reasonable, even much more cheaper than lunch in Laduree. 

Benim en favori restorantim Ralph’s. Verdigim her bir kurus fazlasi ile degerdi. Harika bir yer ve mukemmel yemekler. Onceden rezervasyon yapmaniz lazim, aksi durumda almiyorlar. Gidenler genellikle hamburger icin gidiyor ama bence balik ve baslangiclarda harika, hele tatlilar mukemmel. 

Ozellikle cay servisi ise en mukemmeli. Cay ile birlikte karemelize edilmis patlamis misir getiriyorlar. Ralph’s’e asik oldum resmen. Ayrica yemege ve hizmete bakarsak fiyat cok makul, hatta Laduree’de ki ogle yemeginden cok daha uygun. 

L’Avenue is famous restaurant in Champs Elysees. L’Avenue has just name with celebrates’ choice. I was so badly advised to eat in there but I don’t recommend it. People go there just for its name. 

L’Avenue, Champs Elysees’de ki meshur bir restaront. Ama sadece unlulerin tercihi oldugu icin ismi var. Burada muhakkak yemek yemem konusunda cok fazla tavsiye aldim ama ben tavsiye etmem. Insanlar sadece ismi icin gidiyor. 

rtFor traditional Parisian restaurants, I have two places; Bouillon Chartier is over 100 years old and ambiance is magnificent. L Ami Louis is another one. 

Geleneksel Paris restoranti icin ise iki onerim var; 100 yildan fazladir calisan Bouillon Chartier, ambiyansi mukemmel. L Ami Louis digeri. 

Liza is Lebanese cuisine where I wanted to go so badly. Sadly my travel buddies are very picky for food. I am gonna go there next summer. 

Liza ise  benim cok gitmeyi istedigim Lubnan restoranti. Maasef ki seyahat arkadaslarim yemek konusunda cok secici olduklari icin onumuzdeki yaza kaldi. 

Last couple of tips for where to get best food easily and jump to museums. z

Best onion soup is either in Le Victoria in Saint German or small restaurant behind Notre Dame Cathedral. 

Best hot chocolate in Angelina 

Best eclair is in La maison du chocolat and L’Eclair de Gene 

Best crepe is in front of Saint German metro stairs, (across to Les deux magots). Crepes are in Eiffel Tower are nice too but Saint German one is the best. 

Marche couvert des Enfants Rouges is an amazing food market, close to Le Marais. This place is like heaven for gourmets where you could try intercontinental cousins and also best crepes of the city.

rSon olarakta en iyi hangi yemegi nerden alirizi hizli hizli yazip muzelere gecelim. 

En iyi sogan corbasi; Saint German’daki Le Victoria ya da Notre Dame Cathedral’in arkasindaki kucuk restorant. 

En iyi sicak cikolata; Angelina 

En iyi ekler; La maison du chocolat ve L’Eclair de Gene

En iyi krep; Saint German metrosunun onundeki, (Les deux magots’un karsisinda). Eiffel Kulesi’ndeki kreplerde guzel ama Saint German’daki en iyisi. 

Marche couvert des Enfants Rouges, Le Marais’e yakın bir pazar. Gurmeler icin bu pazar dunya mutfaklarını deneyebileceginiz adeta bir cennet. Ayrıca sehırdeki en guzel krepleri de deneyebilirsiniz. 

This is more like gourmet journal so far. But don’t worry my non-stop walking is about to start. 

Simdiye kadar sanki gurme gezisi gibi oldu. Ama merak etmeyin benim bitmek bilmeyen yurumelerim baslamak uzere. 

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Paris has more than 150 museums. In subway you could get ‘Paris museum pass’ and visit 70 of them with that ticket. First week of every month, museums are free. Luckly the day we went to Louvre was the first day of February and we entered free. But other days, get your entrance tickets in advanced. Museums open till 9-10 pm on some days. In cold days, it is better to visit museums after sunset. Louvre open till 9 pm on wednesday and friday. Musee d’Orsay opens on Thursday. 

Paris’te 150’den fazla muze var. Metrolardan alabileceginiz ‘Paris museum pass’ (muze bileti) ile 70 kadar muzeyi ziyaret edebilirsiniz. Her ayin ilk Pazar gunu ise tum muzelere giris ucretsiz. Sansimiza biz Subat’in ilk pazar gunuydu ve Louvres’e ucretsiz girdik. Ama diger gunler ise biletinizi cok onceden almanizi tavsiye ederim. Muzeler bazi gunler aksam saat 9-10’a kadar acik oluyor. Soguk gunlerde muze ziyaretlerini aksam hava karardiktan sonra yapmak en iyisi. Louvres ise carsamba ve cuma gunleri 9.00’a kadar acik, Musee d’Orsay ise Persembeleri. 

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Louvre is the most visited museum in the world, it is famous with Mona Lisa. Rumeysa doesn’t like paintings neither art but she saw most of Da Vinci’s famous paintings from Italy to France. A girl who doesn’t like art, she has been dragging museum to exhibitions. After Paris, she will be very much capable of handling any art discussions. 

IMG_5313It is says that if you want to see entire museum, you should spare a month to see them all. But we were done 1.5 hours. For entrance use Louvre Rivoli station. Entrance from this station has shorter queue than Pyramid entrance. 

Da Vinci’nin unlu Mona Lisa’na ev sahipligi yapan Louvre Muzesi dunyanin en cok ziyaret edilen muzesi. Resmi hatta sanati sevmeyen biri olarak Rumeysa Da Vinci’nin Italya’dan Fransa’ya kadar bircok unlu resmini canli gorme sansina eristi. Sanati sevmeyen biri olarak muzeler ve galeriler arasinda suruklenip duran biri icin Paris’ten sonra sanat konusunda ciddi tartismalar yapabilecek konumda olucak. 

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Eger tum muzeyi gormek istiyorsaniz tam bir ay ayirmaniz gerektigi soyleniyor. Ama biz 1.5 saatte bitirdik. Giris icin Rivoli istasyonundaki girisi kullaninin, buradaki giris Pyramid’de ki giristen daha kisa. 

Behind Louvre, walk towards to Paris’s most famous courtyard Palais Royal. Enjoy Daniel Buren’s Les Deux Plateaux’s black-white columns, take funny photos and after there walk towards to Rue de Rivoli and enjoy lovely Parisian streets.

Louvre’nun arka sokaginda bulunan Paris’in en meshur avlusu olan Palais Royal’i ziyaret edip Daniel Buren’s Les Deux Plateaux’un siyah-beyaz sutunlarinin keyfini cikarip komik komik resimler cekin, ordan sonra ise Rue de Rivoli’sinde yuruyup Paris’in guzel sokaklarinin keyfini cikarin.

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Musee d’Orsay is much more beautiful than Louvre for me. From Monet to Degas, Cezanne, van Gogh, Renoir, Munch, Klimbt even Mondrian. Initially it was railway station and after a while it became unsuitable for longer trains and let abandoned. Since 1986 it present all those impressionist. Artists were refused by Louvres’ curators because of their works were not match with their traditional art style and in response to them they established their own museum and strengthen ‘impressionism’. We should be very thankful Louvre’s curators for they contribution on art. 

Musee d’Orsay, bana gore Louvres’da daha guzel. Monet’ten Degas’a, Cezanne, van Gogh, Renoir, Munch, Klimbt hatta Mondrian bulunuyor. Ilk onceleri burasi tren istasyonuyken bir zaman sonra uzun trenler icin uygun olmamaya basladi ve atil halde birakildi. 1986’dan beri tum bu ‘empresyonist’ resimler sergileniyor. Bir grup ressamin calismalari Louvres’un kuratorleri tarafindan muzenin klasik sanat konseptine uymadigi gerekcesi ile reddediliyor ve onlar da buna tepki olarak kendi muzelerini kurup ‘empresyonist’ akimi guclendirdiler. Louvres’in kuratorlerine sana yaptiklari bu guzel katkilar icin tesekkur etmeliyiz. 

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Chateaus de Versaille or Palace of Versailles or Marie Antoinette and her famous quote ‘let them eat cake’ (Qu’ils mangent de la brioche). The biggest palace in the world and also the most flamboyant one. It was initially built as hunting palace and within time palace extended with additional buildings and today becomes the biggest. Versaille is represent classical French architecture like Louvres. Palace is great example of baroque with curved landscape. In related to numerous rooms, there wasn’t any toilet and neither bathroom inside the palace until 18th century. On those times, in according to aristocracy, the upper class do their toilets wherever they want therefore no need for stationary toilets. Golden engraving palace and no toilet, aristocracy is the thing that we modern mid-class people are not able to understand. After these problems we met with high-heel shoes. On that time, people used to go there for proms but unluckily they cannot walk on the dirts and they were walking tip toe and after a while somebody realised walking tip toe with fancy dresses on gigantic gardens of Versaille and came up with heels. 

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Versaille is much more bigger than I thought. If you want to see entire chateaus, it occupies your entire day. It has enormous gardens and from main building to other building distances are really far. If you plan your visit for summer, pack your picnic bag and have your lunch in Versaille’s garden. 

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Versay Satosu ya da Versay Sarayi ya da Marie Antoinette’nin meshur sozu olan ‘ekmek bulamiyorlarsa pasta yesinler’ (pasta degil aslinda brioshe denen maaliyet az bir cesit Fransiz ekmedigi) ev sahipligi eden yer. Dunyadaki en buyuk ve en gosterisli saray. Ilk onceleri av kosku olarak insaa edilmis ve zamanla diger ek binalar eklendi ve bugun dunyanin en buyugu olarak yerini aldi. Versay, Louvres gibi klasik Fransiz mimarisini yansitiyor. Saray kivrimli bahceleri ile tam bir barok ornegi. 18.yy’ye kadar sarayda bulunan sayisiz odaya karsilik ne bir tuvalet ne de bir banyo varmis. O zamanlarda, aristokrasi inanisina gore ust sinif insanlar tuvalet ihtiyaclarini nereye isterlerse oraya yaparlarmis, hal boyle olunca sabit bir tuvalete ihtiyac yokmus. Altin islemeli saray ve sifir tuvalet, aristokrasi biz modern orta sinif insanlari anlayacagi birsey degil galiba. Bu problemlerden sonra biz topuklu ayakkabi ile tanisiyoruz. Eski zamanlarda insanlar saraya kutlamalar, balolor icin gittikleri zaman elbileri pislenmesin diye parmak uclarinda yuruyorlarmis ve bir zaman sonra adamin biri gosterisli elbiseler ile bu devasa bahcelerde parmak ucunda yurumenin zorlugunu farkedip topuklu ayakkabiyi tasarlamis. 

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Versay benim tahmin ettigimden cok daha buyukmus. Eger tum catoyu gormek isterseniz, tum gunuzu aliyor. Devasa parklari var ve ana binadan diger binalar arasi mesafe ise cok uzak. Eger yazin giderseniz piknik cantanizi yaniniza alin ve ogle yemeginizi Versay’in bahcesinde yapin. 

eee                                 peristyle courtyard in Versaille / Versay’da Kolonlu avlu ornegi (peristyle)

My museum agenda for my next visit; Rodin Museum, Musee JAcquemart-Andre, Picasso Museum, Musee des arts decoratifs. 

Bir sonraki Paris ajandamda ki muzeler; Rodin Muzesi, Musee JAcquemart-Andre, Picasso Muzesi, Art-dekoratif muzesi. 

Centre Pompidou is architectural masterpiece of Paris. Designed by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers. Piano is one of my favorite architect, to see his works always make me happy. Small brief about the building, there are two of this stye. Other one is Llyods Building in London by Richard Rogers too. Every mechanical and transporting elements of the building kept outside with defining color codes. Stairs, pipes, ventilations are all outside. Therefore this is one of the masterpiece and milestone of architecture. Although it is very ugly and nonsense building for who doesn’t know. Inside there are Kandinsky library and modern art galleries. I had a change to see my favourite painter Sonia Delaunay again. 

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On the top famous restaurant George gives you splendid city view and nice lunch. Other nice restaurant is Pita with Lebanese cuisine, just walking distance to Pompidou. Also L’as du fallafel is close by. You see people with fallafel sandwiches around Pompidou. 

Centre Pompidou, Paris’in mimari basyapiti. Renzo Piano ve Richard Rogers tarafindan tasarlandi. Piano benim favori mimarlarimdan biri, ne zaman onun eserlerinden birini gorsem mutlu oluyorum. Bina hakkinda kucuk bir bilgi vereyim; bu stilde tasarlanmis iki bina var, digeri ise Londora’da Richard Rogers’in yaptigi Llyods Binasi. Her turlu mekanik ve tasima elemanlari binanin disindan geciyor ve her biri farkli bir renk ile tanimlanmis. Merdivenler, borular, havandirmalar hepsi disarida. Bu nedenle iste bu bina mimari tarihinde bir bas yapit, bir donum noktasi. Bilmeyen icin ise ‘aa ne kadar da sacma ve cirkin bir bina’. Iceride ise Kandinsky kutuphanesi ve modern sanatlar var. Favori ressamim Sonia Delaunay’un calismalarini terkar gorme sansim oldu. 

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Tepede ise unlu restorant George, size harika bir sehir manzarasinin yaninda cok guzel bir ogle yemegi sunuyor.  Diger meshur restorant ise Lubnan mutfagi olan Pita, burasi da Pompidou’ya sadece yurume mesafesinde. Ayrica L’as du fallafel ise yine cok yakin. Pompidou’nun etrafinda elllerinde falafel sandivicli insanlari gorursunuz zaten.

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Colourful charming Louis Viutton Foundation is located in Jardin d’acclimatation. It is designed by Frank Gehry with behest of LV Ceo. From distance building resemble the ship because design concept was requested by Ceo. Inside great modern art exhibitions are presenting and also they have nicely presantation about architectural design process even explaining materials and applications. I was fascinated. On the top you have view of Eiffel Tower and modern Paris where full with high rise buildings. 

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Rengarenk cezbedici binasi ile Louis Viutton Foundation Jardin d’acclimatation’de bulunuyor. Lv’nin Ceo’sunun israrlari uzerine Frank Gehry tarafindan tasarlaniyor. Bina uzaktan gemiyi andiriyor cunku konsept fikrini Lv’nin Ceo’su ozellikle istedi. Iceride harika modern sanat sergileri bulunuyor ve ayrica cok guzelce gosterilen malzemelerin nasil kullanildiginindan sistemlerin detayli anlatigildigi mimari dizayn ve uygulama sunumlari mevcut. Ben cok etkilendim. Tepede ise Eiffel Kulesini ve Paris’in yuksek binalari ile dolu olan modern tarafini gorebileceginiz bir seyir terasi var. 

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There is one more building on my bucket list for a long time, I want to share it to meanwhile I was talking about Louis Viutton Foundation 

Louis Viutton Foundation’dan bahsetmisken cok uzun zamandir listemde olan baska bir modern binadan bahsetmetmek isterim. 

edcArab World Institute (Institut du monde Arabe) by Jean Nouvel. It was constructed for research and disseminate information about Arab world and it is museum, library, research institute since founded. What makes the 40 years of building interesting ? Facade ornament. Firstly facade is inspired by arabic geometric motifs and those motifs are actually designed as brise soleil (sun shade brakers-shutters) and they are automatically open and close to control sun and heat for in accordance to demand and usage of the building. Idea of filtering light comes from Islamic architecture ‘mashrabiye’ (bay windows). Also there is very nice bookstore inside.  

Jean Nouvel imzali Arab World Enstitusi (Institut du monde Arabe). Kuruldugu gunden beri kutuphane, arastirma estitusi ve muze olarak kurulan bina Arap dunyasindaki bilgilerin paylasilmasi ve arastirmalarin yapilmasi icin insaa edildi. Peki bu 40 yillik binayi ilginc kilan ne? Cephe bezemeleri. Oncelikle cephenin arabesk geometrik motiflerden esinlenmis bu motifler asil olarak gunes kirici olarak tasarlanmis. Bu gunes kiricilar binanin ihtiyacina ve kullanima gore gunes isigini ve isiyi kontrol ederek otomatik olarak acilip kapaniyor. Isigin kontrol edildigi bu fikir ise Islami mimarideki ‘masrabiye’ (cumbali pencerede)’den geliyor. Ayrica iceride cok guzel bir kitapci var. 

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Paris fulls with arty-crafty palaces all around the city. Some of them open for tourist and as soon as you enter you mesmerised with interiors. 

Some palaces you may wish to see;

Paris sehrin her yerine yayilmis olan gosterisli binalar ile dolu. Bunlarin bazilarida turistlere acik ve kapidan iceri girer girmez buyuleniyorsunuz. 

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Gormek isteyeceginiz bazilari ise;

Hotel de Ville is one of most known touristic spot in Paris. It is other side of Seine River, facing to Notre-Dame Cathedral. It is one of the most picturesque place with carousel in front of in the city as well. 

Hotel de Ville, Paris’teki bilinen en turistik yerlerden biri. Seine Nehri’nin kuzeyinde bulunan bina Notre-Dame Catheral’inin karsisinda yer aliyor. Ayrica onundeki atli karinca ile sehirdeki en guzel resim cekilebilecek yerlerden biri. 

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Palais Garner (Opera Garnier) attracts you with its magical interior and charming style. 5 mins walk from Louvre. Short walking distance from here, Galeries Lafayette is famous grand mall of Paris since late 19th century. It is one of the landmark of the city. Also you get your tax free directly in store. Only in here, you refund your shopping tax. Furthermore on the top, Lafayette has terrace restaurant where you could have great city view. 

Palais Garner (Opera Garnier) sizi buyuleyici ic mekani ve etkileyici stili ile sizi buyuluyor ve bina Louvre’den 5 dakika uzaklikta. Buradan kisa bir yurume mesafesi ile Galeries Lafayette ulasabilirsiniz. 19 yy’nin sonlarindan beri Paris’in en unlu ve buyuk alisveris merkezi. Burasi ayni zamandan sehrin simge merkezlerinden biri. Yaptiginiz alisverisin tax-freesini buradan direk aliyorsunuz, havalimanina gitmeden once. Tax-free demisken suraya kucuk bir not duselim. Artik cok zorlasti vergiyi geri almak ve sakin pasaport kontrolunden sonraya birakmayin cunku alamiyorsunuz.  Ucagimizin cok erken olmasindan dolayi arkadas pasaport sonrasina birakti ve gorevli once faturalarin fotokopilerini istedi sonra baska evrak derken ya param yansin diyicen ya da cikis yapip gerekli evraklari halledip disaridaki tax-freede halledicen ki cikmak iside 5 dakikada olmuyor. Velhasil kelam arkadas parasini alamadan vatana geri dondu. Ek olarak Lafayette’nin terasinda cok guzel bir restorant var buradan sehride rahat rahat seyredebilirsiniz. 

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Place des Vosges is close distance to Bastille metro station, when you go there, pay a visit to Le Pavillion de la Reine, behind the palace for discovering nice part of Paris and walk on Rue de birague. After this long walking have a sweat break in Carette, enjoy your coffee and desert.

Place des Vosges, Bastille metro istasyonuna cok yakin. Gittiginiz zaman Le Pavillion de la Reine’da mutlaka ugrayin. Sarayin arkasindan Paris’in guzel bolumlerini kesfetmek icin Rue de birague’e yuruyun. Bu kadar yurumekten sonra kucuk bir kahve molasi icin ise benim onerecegim guzel mekan;Carette. Tatlinizin ve kahvenizin keyfini cikarin.

Grand Palais is remind me Crystal Palace of London with huge glass skylight. It hosting events and exhibitions time to time, check the calendar. Palais de Tokyo is where you could get great Eiffel Tower photos. I haven’t been inside, only enjoyed the courtyard where took lots of Eiffel Tower photos. If I am not mistaken famous French street artist, Jr has an exhibition in here. 

Grand Palais bana Londra’da ki kocaman cam isikliklari olan Crystal Palace’i animsatti. Zaman zaman gosterilere, sergilere ev sahipligi yapiyor, takvime bakin belki ilginizi ceken birseyler olur. Palais de Tokyo, en guzel Eiffel Kulesi resimlerini buradan cekebilirsiniz. Iceriye girmedim, sadece bahcesinin keyfini cikardim ve sayisiz resim cektim. Yanilmiyorsam bu aralar unlu Fransiz sokak sanatcisinin Jr’in bir sergisi var. 

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Place de la Concorde is another famous palace but I prefer to spend time in the square and enjoy the fountain and  The Big Wheel and from here you could take another beautiful photos of Eiffel Tower. 

Place de la Concorde ise bir diger unlu saray ama ben acikcasi cesmesi ve The Big Wheel ile  meydanin keyfini cikarmayi tercih ederim. Ayrica buradan da cok guzel Eiffel Kulesi resimleri cekebilirsiniz. 

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We all know about Paris mostly with fashion but city is also talking with its architecture. Splendid palaces and buildings made us speechless. It takes more than a month to see all of them. Thats why Paris is always calling you, always makes you busy with its hustle and bustle streets. 

11Paris is home of world-famous fashion and food brands. All those big brands have their first store mostly in Champs-Elysées where is the most famous street of the city. It continues from Arc de Triomphe to Concorde square. Once upon a times Champs-Elysees was symbol of fashion and romanticism of the city where Hermes, Pierre Herme, Laduree and many other famous French brand opened their first branch in this street. By the way Champs-Elysees’s name comes from Elysian plains where depicting as heaven in Greek myth. 

Go to Hermes’ first store, marvellous. You enter from small window and immediately store enlarging to massive store. Unfortunately no photo inside that nostalgic store. 

Paris’i en cok modasi ile biliyoruz ama sehir kendine has mimarisi ile de kendinden fazlasi ile soz ettiriyor. Muhtesem saraylari ve binalari bizi bizden aliyor. Bir aydan fazla surer her halde hepsini gormemiz. Bundan dolayidir ki Paris bizi her daim cagiriyor, sizi her vakit sokaklarinin harale gurelesi ile mesgul eder. 

Paris bircok dunya devi olan moda ve yemek markasina ev sahipligi yapiyor. Bu buyuk markalarin bircogunun ilk magazalari ise ozellikle de sehrin en meshur ve islek caddesi olan Champs-Elysées’de. Cadde Arc de Triomphe’den Concorde Meydani’na kadar devam ediyor. Bir zamanlar Champs-Elysées, sehrin moda ve romantizmin semboluymus, Hermes, Pierre Herme, Laduree ilk dukkanlarini bu cadde uzerinde acmislar. Bu arada Champs-Elysees’in ismi Yunan mitolojisinde cennet olarak tanimlanan Elysian ovalarindan geliyor.

Hermes’in ilk dukkanina gidin. Kucuk bir vitrinin oldugu magazaya giriyorsunuz ve bir anda kucuk dukkan kocaman gosterisli bir magazaya donusuyor. Ama bu nostaljik dukkanda resim cekmek maalesef ki yasak. 

Ok, lets do some shopping. Champs-Elysées has some many alternatives, French brands to world brands. Either you shop in here or go something original and local designers. 

IMG_5490Bastille to Le Marais to Canal Saint-Martin, there are lots of cool boutiques. 

I loved hip fashion places in Le Marais.If you have specific things on mind and coffee breaks, Canal Saint-Martin and Le Marais are perfect place. Even you may find some outlet. 

When you are in Paris and shopping is on your list, you wouldn’t complete it without visiting ‘Merci’ with its amazing home design and furnitures. While you are in Merci, Used book cafe is great place for break.

If you love vintage and second-hang ‘Thanx God I’m Vip’ is nice place. 

Rue des Rosiers s where Jewish community dwelling. On Sundays roads are close for flea markets and roads surrounded with nice restaurants. I couldn’t go there but my cousin found this street very beautiful. 

This road is one of the best flea market in the city. Others are Clignancourt and Portes de Vanves Flea Market. But they are a bit outskirt of the city. 

Hadi biraz alisveris. Champs-Elysées yerli ve yabanci bircok alternativi icinde barindiriyor. Ister buradan isterde daha orjinal daha yerel tasarimcilarin pesinden gidin. 

9Bastille’den Le Marais’e Canal-Saint Martin’e dogru uzanan harika butiklerin oldugu sokaklarda ki cool butikleri gezebilirsiniz. 

Le Marais’te bulunan hippi mekanlari cok sevdim. Eger kafanizda ne aradiginiz belliyse ve bir de aralarda guzel kahve molalari vermek istiyorsaniz Canal-Saint Martin ve Le Marais bicilmis kaftan. Hatta bazi outlet yerleride var. 

Eger Paris’e gidip alisveris yapmakta oncelikli programinizsa, ‘Merci’yi ziyaret etmeden, harika ev esyalari ve mobilyalari olmadan program tamamlanmis olmaz. Merci’ye gidince mutlaka Used book cafe’a ugrayiniz. 

Eger klasik tasarimlari ve ikinci-el esyalari seviyorsaniz, Thanx God I’m Vip harika bir yer. 

Rue des Rosiers,Yahudi Mahalllesi. Pazar gunleri buradaki yollar antika pazarlari icin kapaniyor ve sokaklar guzel restoranlarla dolu. Ben maalesef gidemedim ama kuzenim cok guzel ve keyifli bir  yer oldugunu soylemisti. 

Bu sokak sehirdeki en guzel bit pazari. Diger meshur bit pazarlari ise; Clignancourt  ve Portes de Vanves bit pazari. Ama bunlar biraz sehir merkezinin disinda.

How about bookworms ? I didn’t forget you! I have two bookstore, you will be in love at the first sight. 

First one is the most famous one; Shakespeare & Co in Saint German. It is one of the oldest. You may buy or rent books. 

Second one is; Reliure, ancient book store in Galerie Vivienne. 

Ee hani kitap kurtları? Tabii ki de onları unutmadim! Ilk goruste asık olacagınız iki tane super kitapcım var. 

İlki en unlu olanı; Saint German’da bulunan Shakespeare & Co. En eskisi. Burada kitaplari ister satın alın ister kiralayın. 

İkincisi ise; Galerie Vivienne’de ki antika kitapci olan Reliure.

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Walking from Eiffel Tower to Champs-Elysées at night and dine one of the restaurants in there and walk back to hotel from totally different route is the most enjoyable part of the city for me. I cant imagine how beautiful would it in the summer. Plaza Athenee is finest architectural figure of the city. Although interior is even much more beautiful. 

Sehirde yapmaktan en cok keyif aldigim sey, aksamlari Eiffel Kulesin’den Champs-Elysées’e dogru yuruyup, oradaki bir restoranta yemegi yedikten sonra otele dogru bu sefer farkli sokaklardan gecerek yuruyerek donmek. Yazin ne kadar daha keyifli olacagini tahmin bile edemiyorum. Plaza Athenee ise sehirdeki en guzel mimari orneklerden biri. Hatta icerisi daha da guzel. 

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Arc de Triomphe is Paris’ another symbol. It was built by one of Napoleon as dedicated to imperial army. It is in the central of Paris, and has great overall city view of Paris, from here city looks perfectly well design. 

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But  we less know story behind that street planning. Many people know that city initially designed with proper city planning like Florence but but width is arrange in according to Napoleon III’s army crossing easily. He was the first elected president president after monarchy. But during his coronation ceremony. He took the crown from pope and placed it to his head by himself. That’s made him king again instead of elected president. Therefore he was very scared of uprising by the people and he decided to organize roads and streets even house levels and their balconies for troops move easily and wants to patrolling them from higher place. Houses used to be max 5 storey high. He hired German original architect Haussmann for renovation and urban planning. In the name of embellishing he ruined the city, demolished all the roads for Napoleon.Today we are enjoying the beauty of roads. From Concorde or Eiffel Tower walk from any road, you end up in Arc de Triomphe. Every roads end to it. 

Roads were enlarged, patrolling was increased. Espionage was needed. How could Napoleon will manage it ? Placing cafes sides to the roads and facing them to road. Then people sitting on the cafes, facing to the street for spying. After a while cafes became main interest in their lives. Thereby this brought ‘cafe culture’ to our life. Plus this cafe society comes with women in more modern dressing, being more suitable for daily life dressing, taking off corset. This dressing changing comes with Coco Chanel’s leadership.

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Well then, what happened after all those demolition and for the people who lost their houses ? They were forced to leave the city to towns. Therefore ‘shanty town’ created first time in the history. 

‘Yes, we demolished so many houses but we built as much as them and we made parks as well’ Haussmann’s famous quote. 
How about parks ? There is an interesting story about them too. 

Inspiring from British landscape architecture they designed parks-squares for preventing riots over those city changing. Moreover for not liverishing those differences sitting areas were same, lamps were exactly same all around the city. Even today sittings and lambs are still same. In the parks aristocrats and public used to have separated sections. 

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Arc de Triomphe (Zafer Taki), Paris’in bir diger sembolu. imparatorluk ordusuna adamak icin Napolyonlardan biri tarafindan yapildi. Paris’in tam merkezinde duruyor ve harika bir tepeden Paris seyri sunuyor. 

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Baktiginiz zaman sehrin ne kadar guzel planlandigini gorursunuz. Ama bircogumuz bu sehir planlamasinin arkasindaki hikayeyi bilmiyoruz.

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Bircok kisi Paris’in ilk basta duzgun bir sehir planlamasi konsepti ile tasarlandigini biliyor, Floransa’da ki gibi. Ama sokak genislikleri Napolyon’un ordusunun kolaylikla gecebilecegini oranda planlandi. 3. Napolyon monarsiden sonra halk oyu ile secilen ilk baskandi. Ama tac giyme toreni sirasinda papanin elinden taci alip kendi basina gecirince kendini baskan degil kral olarak ilan etti. Durum boyle olunca sonrasinda ise insanlarin isyan etmesinden cok korkmaya baslamis ve bundan dolayi sokaklari ve yollari hatta evlerin yuksekliklerini ve balkonlarini tanklarin kolayca gecebilecegi sekilde tasarlamis. Evler ise max 5 kat olucakti. Renovasyon ve sehir planlamasi icin Alman asilli mimar Haussmann’i calistirdi. O da yenilik adi altinda tum sehri mahvetti, tum yollari yikti. Bugun ise bu yollarin keyfini cikariyoruz. Concorde’den ya da Eiffel Kulesi’nden yururun ve her seferinde Arc de Triomphe’e varisiniz. Tum yollar ona cikiyor.

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Yollar genisletildi, kontroller artti. Ispiyonculuga ihtiyac var. Peki Napolyon bunu nasil kontrol edilcek? Kafeleri yollarin kenarlarina yerlestirip, onlari caddeye dogru cevirerek. Insanlar sokaga cevrili kafelere oturarak ajanliklarini yaptilar. Bir sure sonra kafeler insanlarin yogun ilgisi ile hayatlarinda yer aldi. Boylece ‘kafe kulturu’ hayatimiza girmis oldu. Ek olarak bu kafe cemiyeti ile kadinlar daha modern giyinmeye basladi, gunluk yasama daha uyan rahat kiyafetler giymeye baslayip, korselerini attilar. Bu degisimde Coco Chanel’in onculugu ile oldu.

IMG_5364Peki, bu yikimlardan sonra ne oldu ? Evleri yikilan insanlar nereye gittiler ? Sehri terketmek zorunda kalip kirsallara yerlestiler ve boylece tarihte ilk defa ‘gecekondu’ kavrami ortaya cikmis oldu. 

‘Evet, cok ev yiktik ama bir o kadar da yaptik hatta parklar bile yaptik’ Haussmann’in meshur sozu. 

Peki parklar ? Onlar icinde ilginc bir hikaye var.  

Insanlarin bu sehir planlamasina isyan etmemeleri icin onlara Ingiliz peyzaj mimarisinden esinlenerek genis park-meydanlar yaptilar. Hatta farkliliklardan rahatsiz olmamalari icin parklardaki oturma alanlari, tambalari hep ayni oldu. Hatta bugun bile o lambalar, oturaklar duruyor. Parkta aristokratlar ve halk icin ayri bolumler vardi. 

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I guess we should talk about famous iron lattice triangle. 

What is the first thing comes to your mind about Paris ?

Most-visited paid monument and also tallest man-made structure in the world.

Of course, Eiffel Tower. 

Artik meshur kafes sekilli demir ucgenden konusmaya baslayalim. 

Paris denilince akliniza ilk gelen sey ne ? 

Dunyada en cok ucretli ziyaret edilen abidesi ve insan yapimi en buyuk insaat. 

Tabii ki de, Eiffel Kulesi.

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It is the first place where everybody rush to Eiffel straight after airport. We were too. Our first hotel was in Lena where only 5 minutes to Eiffel Tower. We went there different times of the day. First we went after dark to see lights and night entertainments. Once we went there before noon and climb the tower on the sunniest time of the day. Once we went before sunset and watched the tower from Trocadero. Most entertaining time is sunset. Everybody gets there with cameras, street dancers and vendors are surrounded with crepe scents. 

Yes, it is beautiful day and night, with light on without light off. 

Herkes havalimanindan hemen sonra ilk buraya kosuyor. Ee bizde. Bizim ilk otelimiz Lena’da Eiffel Kulesi’ne 5 dakika uzakliktaydi. Biz gunun farkli farkli zamanlarinda gittik. Ilk once gece gidip isiklari ve gece eglencelerinin keyfini cikardik. Bir kere de oglen gittik ve tepeye ciktigimizda gunun en parlak zamaninda sehrin tepeden keyfini cikardik. Sonra bir kere de gun batimindan once gidip Trocadero’den gun batiminin keyfini cikardik. Ama en eglencelisi sun batimiydi. Kamerasini kapan gelmis, krep kokularinin sarildigi sokak danscilari ve seyyar saticilari… 

Evet, gunduz gece hep guzel, isiklari varkende isiklar sonukkende… 

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Initially it was designed for centennial of French Revolution on Expo Paris as for flamboyant entrance gate. It was going to demolish after Expo but ever since 1889 it is saluting the visitors of Paris. Structure’s name comes from Gustav Eiffel who designed and built the tower. 

IMG_5650By the time it was the tallest in the world. American got jealous and Chrysler Tower was constructed within 11 months. What French did, add satellite to the top and regain the reputation back but war is not finished yet. American came with another one, Empire State was completed a year after Chrysler Tower and it became the tallest for a long time. Last two decades tallest buildings are all rising in the eastern countries. And today, Dubai is holding the record until KSA or Kuwait comes with much taller one. 

Baslangicta Fransiz Ihtilali’nin 100. yildonumu kutlamak icin Paris fuarinin gosterisli giris kapisi olarak tasarlanmis. Fuardan sonra yikilacakti ama 1889’dan bu yana Paris’in misafirlerini selamliyor. Binanin ismi ise tasarlayan ve insaa eden muhendisi Gustav Eiffel’den geliyor. 

O zamanlar dunyadaki en buyuk insaatti. Amerikanlar ise kiskandi ve Chrysler Tower’i 11 ayda insaa ettiler. Peki Fransizlar ne yapti, tepeye bir anten eklediler ve unvanini geri kazandi ama savas henuz bitmedi. Amerikanlar bu sefer baska bir tanesi ile geldiler, Empire State Binasi Chrysler Tower’dan bir sene sonra tamamlandi ve bu sefer en yuksek bina burasi oldu. Son yillarda ise artik dunyanin en yukses binalari dogu ulkelerinde yukseliyor. Bugun Dubai ise dunyanin en yuksek binasina sahip, BAE ya da Kuveyt daha yuksegi ile gelene kadar. 

Today it is most profit making monument in Paris. To climb up to the top is a bit pricey. In peak season you should get tickets in advanced. 

Bugun Paris’te en cok kar getiren abide. Tepeye cikmak ise ciddi pahali. Yuksek sezonlarda ise biletinizi onceden almaniz cok saglikli olur. 

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Some hotels organise tickets for you or some tour companies make combo tickets including river cruise and Louvre and Eiffel Tower in reasonable price. Of course, you should check the weather before, it would be heartbreaking to watch foggy clouds over the city. Honestly, view is not that much fascinated. I was warned that I was going to disappointed with the view comparing the money I paid but it was my first time and thought once in a life time. But I am going to advice you in same way. Other monuments have better view. 

Bazi oteller sizin icin bilet ayarliyor ya da bazi tur firmalar nehir turu, Louvre ve Eiffel Kulesi’nin oldugu kombo bilet organize ediyor, hemde uygun bir fiyata. Tabii ki de cikmadan once hava durumunu kontrol edin, sisli bir havada sehri seyretmek hicte keyifli olmayabilir. Acikcasi, manzara o kadar da guzel degildi. Cikmadan once cok uyarildim, verdigim paraya kiyasla gordugum manzara karsisinda ciddi hayal kirikligina ugrayacagim konusunda. Ama ilk defa gittim ve omurde bir kere olucak birsey. Bende simdi sizi ayni sekilde uyaracagim. Diger abidelerin sehir manzaralari cok daha guzel. 

Trocadero, Palais de Chaillot is where you could take nice picture with Eiffel Tower. Sunset time gets very crowded. Crepes are good too. 

Trocadero, Palais de Chaillot Eiffel Kulesi’ni gorebileceginiz en guzel yer. Gun batiminda ise cok  kalabalik oluyor. Krepler ise gayet guzel. 

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Eiffel Tower and surroundings are all picturesque. For me Bir Hakeim Bridge is most fascinating one. If you watched ‘Inception’ you would remember the bridge. 

Eiffel Kulesi ve etrafindaki hersey resmedilmeye deger guzellikte. Benim icin ise Bir Hakeim Koprusu en etkileyisi. ‘Inception’ izlediyseniz bu kopruyu hatirlayacaksiniz. 

River Seine has lots of bridges and some of them are individually piece of art. Bir Hakeim is one of them. 

Seine Nehri’nde cok sayida kopru bulunuyor ve bunlarin bazilari tek baslarina adeta bir sanat eseri. Bir Hakeim ise bunlardan biri.

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Alexandre III Bridge is the bridge with sculptures featuring on it. This is the most artistic, most extravagant bridge in the city. It is in between Palace de la Concorde and Invalides. Movie for this bridge is ‘Me before you’. 

Heykellerin bulundugu en meshurlardan biri; Alexandre III Koprusu. Burasi sehirdeki en sanatsal, en sasali kopru. Palace de la Concorde ve Invalides arasinda bulunuyor ve burada hangi film vardi ? ‘Benden once sen’

IMG_5427Pont des Arts is most romantic and most artistic bridge for me in all out of 37 bridges. Pont des Arts’ name became Pont des  Amoureux (lovers bridge) with love locks. Lover lock their padlocks onto the bridge. After a while fences are full with lockers, lovers started to lock over the lamps. However bridge couldn’t carry the load statically therefore padlocks removed. Today ‘no hanging padlock’ sign is written and just behind the sigh you still see 1-2 padlocks. It is bridging Louvre and Institut de France. Bridge hosting painters and sellers during the day. And movie for this bridge is ‘now you see me’. 

Pont des Arts; tum 37 kopru icinde en romantik ve artistik olani. Pont des Arts’in ismi uzerine takilan ask kilitleri ile Pont des  Amoureux (lovers bridge) oldu. Asiklar, ask kilitlerini kopruye takmaya basladilar ve zamanla kenalarda yer kalmadi, artik lambalarin uzerine bile kilit asmaya baslandi. Lakin zamanla koptu bu kadar yuku tasiyamaz oldu ve tum kilitler kaldirildi. Bugun ise koprunun uzerinde ‘kilit asmak yasak’ diyor ama hemen arkasinda 1-2 tane kilit halen duruyor. Louvre ve Institut de France birbirine baglayan koprude gun boyu ressamlari ve saticilari gorebilirsiniz. Bu kopru icin hangi film derseniz, ‘sihirbazlar cetesi’.

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Pont Neuf means ‘new bridge’ however it is the oldest bridge in Paris. It is bridging south and north with Ile de la Cite

Ile de la Cite, small island in the middle of River Seine where the medieval city refounded. How many kingdom, how many tribes passed from this island. Today is home to Notre Dame de Paris and Sainte-Chapelle, Corciergerie. Maybe it is the most visited island in the world by courtesy of Notre Dame. 

Ponf Neuf kelime olarak ‘yeni kopru’ demek ama sehirdeki en eski kopru Sehrin guneyi ile kuzeyini  Ile de la Cite uzerinden birlestiriyor. 

Ile de la Cite, Seine nehrinin ortasinda bulunan orta cag sehrinin yeniden kuruldugu kucuk ada. Bu adadan kac tane krallik, kac tane kabile gecmistir kim bilir. Bugun ise Notre Dame de Paris, Sainte-Chapelle ve Corciergerie ev sahipligi yapiyor. Notre Dame’in ununden dolayi belkide dunyada en cok ziyaret edilen adadir.

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Notre Dame de Paris is the most visited place in Paris, even more than Eiffel Tower. We all watched beautiful Esmeralda and hunchback of Notre Dame. We all asked ourselves that hunchback is really on the tower ? Maybe some of us didn’t asked but before we climb up, Rumeysa questioned me thousand times. ‘Sister, Is that Hunchback is real ? Are we gonna see any hunchback?’ 

Sadly she didn’t see any but we had best Paris view, better than we had on Eiffel Tower. I saw my most wondered building in the world. 

Notre Dame de Paris, sehrin en cok ziyaret edilen turistik mekani, Eiffel Kulesi’nden bile daha cok.  Notre Dame’in Kamburu ve  guzel Esmeralda’yi’ hepimiz izlemisizdir. Gercekten de o kambur adam gercekten o kulede mi yasadi diye sormusuzdur her halde. Belki bazilarimiz sormamis olabilir ama biz tepeye cikmadan once Rumeysa ‘tepede kambur var mi?’ diye en az milyon kere sordu. ‘Abla, Notre Dame’in kamburu gercek mi?’ ‘Kamburu gorucek miyiz?’ 

Maalesef ki Rumeysa hic kambur gormedi ama biz en guzel Paris manzarasini izledik, Eiffel Kulesi’nde izledigimizden cok daha guzeldi. Ben ise dunyada gormeyi en cok istedigim binayi sonunda gormus oldum. 

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vbcRose windows with gloomy interior, transept plan, arch boutant (flying buttress) are what Notre Dame add into architectural vocabulary. It might have seemed medieval but it was completed before medieval era, actually it is very much Gothic style.

Gul pencereler ile kasvetli ic mekan, transept plan (hac seklinde olan klise plani), kemervari payanda (kemerli payanda), iste bunlar Notre Dame’in mimarlik sozlugune kattiklari. Ortacag eseri gibi durabilir ama daha once bitmis fazlasi ile Gotik duran bir klise. 

A small brief about ‘flying buttress’; during the construction architects wanted a cathedral full with light but how come it would be possible with massive heavy loads. Somehow somebody came with idea of flying buttress which is arch shaped. It carries the load of roof  away from the building instead of side of the building. Since they carry the roof weight, building could be any shape and could be full with rose windows. 

Flying buttress (kemerli payanda) hakkinda kucuk bir dipnot; klisenin insaati esnasinda mimarlar daha aydinlik bir bina istemisler ama o kadar agir yuku tasirken binayi aydinlik tutmak nasil olabilirdi. Sonra biri flying buttress fikri ile geliyor. Onerisi bu payandalar payandalar kemer seklinde olup, catinin yukunu catidan uzakta tutarak tasirlarmis (yuku binanin yanina vermek yerine). Bu payandalarin catinin yukunu tasimaya basladiklarindan beri binalar her sekilde yapilir, cepherinde sayisiniz gul pencereler ile dolar oldu. 

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In part of Haussmann Paris city plan Notre Dame was going to demolish too. Victor Hugo got very upset, as a reaction to this he wrote ‘Hunchback of Notre Dame’. People loved it so badly and after book they protected the church and prevented to demolish. I guess we own huge thanks to Hugo.

Haussmann’in sehir planlama programi icende Notre Dame’da yikilacak binalar arasindaydi. Victor Hugo buna cok uzulur ve ‘Notre Dame’in Kamburu’nu yazar. Halk bu hikayeyi cok sever ve ardindan kliseye sahip cikip yikilmasina engel oldular. Galiba Hugo’ya ciddi bir tesekkur borcluyuz.

Saint-Chapelle is where I was became speechless under 13th century technology. How come they achieved that success. It is French Gothic style, ‘Rayonnant (new for me too). It is playing with bigger scale and space. It is impossible not to impressed with the light infiltrated into the gallery. I guess I love this type of buildings, humble on exterior and bombastic in inside. 

Saint-Chapelle, 13 yy’nin teknolojisi karsisinda beni benden alan bir yer oldu. Nasil oluyorda o zamanlarda boyle bir basariya ulasabildiler. Fransiz Gotik stili ‘Rayonnant’ (benim icinde yeni bir tanim). Buyuk olculerle ve alanlarda oynamak oluyor. Galeriye gecen isiklarin sovundan etkilenmemek imkansiz. Galiba ben bu tarz binalari seviyorum, disaridan mutevazi olup, iceride ates atanlardan. 

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Corciergie is next to Saint-Chapelle, former Medieval prison and law court now. It is where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned before her execution. 

Saint-Chapelle’nin yaninda bulunan Corciergie orta cagda hapishaneyken bugun adalet sarayi. Burasi Marie Antoinette’nin idam edilmeden once hapsedildigi yer ayni zamanda. 

I am about to finish my days in Paris, last couple places to go, but we need to cross the bridge and towards to south.

Paris’te ki gunlerim bitmek uzere, gitmeden onceki son bir kac gun, ama once nehrin guneyine gecmemiz lazim. 

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Pantheon is early example of neo-classicism in Paris. Originally it was built as church in Latin Quarter but after French Revolution it lost its religion effect and converted to mausoleum for French distinguished people. Name is same with Roman Pantheon nevertheless construction was influenced from Saint Paul Cathedral, London. For me three of them are totally different, no single resemblance. 

Some distinguished French citizens mausoleum; Victor Hugo, Marie Curre, Voltaire, Emile Zola, Jean-Jacques Rousseau. 

Also Pantheon was the site of Rodin’s ‘thinker’ sculpture until 1922, now it is in Rodin museum. 

Leon Foucault demonstrated that earth rotations around itself with placing Foucault pendulum beneath the dome. I learned this from Umberto Eco’s ‘Foucault Pendulum’ book.  

Pantheon, Paris’teki neo-klasizmin en erken orneklerinden biri. Aslinda Latin Quarter bolgesinde klise olarak yapilmis ama Fransiz Ihtilalinden sonra dini etkisini kaybedip seckin Fransizlar icin anit mezara donusmus. Ismi Roma’da ki Pantheon ile ayni olabilir ama insaati Londra’da ki Saint Paul Katedrali’nden esinlenilmis. Bana gore ise uc binada birbirinden tamamen farkli, arada hicbir benzerlik yok gibi. 

Anit mezarda bulunan bazi seckin Fransizlar ise: Victor Hugo, Marie Curre, Voltaire, Emile Zola, Jean-Jacques Rousseau.

Pantheon ayrica Rodin’in ‘dusunen adam’ heykeline 1922’ye kadar ev sahipligi yapmis. Simdi ise Rodin Muzesi’nde. Leon Foucault dunyanin kendi etrafinda dondugunu Foucault sarkacini kubbenin tam altina koyarak ilk burda kanitlamis. Ben bunu ise Umberto Eco’nun ‘Foucault Sarkaci’ kitabinda okumustum. 

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Final tips about Pantheon, it has great city view from its top.

Another roof with perfect city views; Tour Montparnasse, Printemps Rooftop. I guess in Paris you could city view almost in every district. 

Pantheon ile ilgili son bir bilgi, tepesinde guzel bir sehir manzarasi sunuyor. 

Sehirdeki diger guzel manzarasi olan yerler ise; Tour Montparnasse, Printemps Rooftop. Sanirsam Paris’in hemen hemen her bolgesinden guzel guzel sehir manzaralari bulabilirsiniz. 

Meanwhile, since I mentioned the mausoleums in Pantheon, I shall jump to famous cemetery of Paris with grave of distinguished people thus make it the most visited cemetery in the world. Lachaise Cemetery is the in 20th arrondissement. Oscar Wilde, Moliere, Edith Piaf, Balzac, Ahmet Kaya and Yilmaz Guney have their graves in here. I couldn’t go because of limited timing, next time Insallah. 

Pantheon’da ki anit mezardan bahsetmisken unlu ve seckin kisilerinin mezarlarinin bulundugu Paris’in en meshur mezarligina atlayayim. 20. mahallede (arrondissement) bulunan Lachaise Mezarligi dunyanin en cok ziyaret edilen mezarligi. Oscar Wilde, Moliere, Edith Piaf, Balzac, Ahmet Kaya ve Yilmaz Guney’nin mezarligi hep burada. Ben kisitli zamanimdan dolayi gidemedim, Insallah bir daha ki sefere. 

Latin Quarter is one of my favourite district of Paris. Name comes from speaking Latin  was so much on old times. Sorbonne University is in here too and  has been educating since middle age. 

Latin Quarter, benim Paris’te ki favori mahallem. Isminin latin olmasi ise zamaninda en cok konusulan dilin olmasindan geliyor. Orta cagdan beri egitim veren Sorbonne Universitesi de burada yer aliyor. 

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Le Jardin du Luxembourg is Is very close to Sorbonne University. It has massive park and palace where mostly visited by students and tourist. Palace was built with imitation of Pitti Palace, Florence. I agreeded the resemblance, how about you ? 

Le Jardin du Luxembourg, Sorbonne Universitesi’ne cok yakin. Kocaman parki ve sarayi bulunan park turistler ve ogrenciler tarafindan cok tercih ediliyor. Saray, Floransa’da ki Pitti Sarayi’ni kopyalarak yapilmis. Ben benzettim, peki ya siz? 

While I was walking in the city, I always wanted to have picnic in the parks. I love picnics and always ready for picnic,  grab my picnic bag and thermos, end up in any green spot. Thats why summer has special meaning for me with my picnic dreams. Paris is heaven for people like me who die for picnics. City is full with parks with pods surrounded with conversation chairs and picnic areas. Yes, going back in summer is oblige now. 

Jardin du Champ de Mars, Jardin des Tuileries, Le Jardin du Luxembourg, Invalides are all in my summer list. 

Sehirde gezerken, hep piknik yapmak istedim. Piknik yapmayi cok seven biri olarak da her zaman hazirim. Piknik cantam, termosum kapip en yakin yesillige kosarim. Hal boyle olunca yazin piknik hayallarimden dolayi bendeki yeri baskadir. Iste Paris benim gibi piknik yapmayi sevenler icin tam bir cennet. Sehir etrafi sohbet sandalyeleri ile cevrilmis havuzlari olan piknik yapilacak harika parklarla dolu. Evet, yazin gitmek farz oldu. 

Yaz icin listemde olan parklar ise; Jardin du Champ de Mars, Jardin des Tuileries, Le Jardin du Luxembourg, Invalides.

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Art and Paris are synonymies. After world wars and domestic political problems in other countries. ghıguıkMost of the artist and painters went to Paris one after another. Most of the painters were created their most famous works in Paris. Even Paris has museums for them. Picasso, Dali Museums. Montmartre or as we say ‘painter’s hill’. At the beginning of 20th century, during the ‘Beautiful Era’ (Belle Epoque) many artist had studios in or around Montmarte, from Monet to Van Gogh, Dali to Anvers, Mondrian to Picasso. 

Paris ve Sanat kelimeleri esanlamli kelimeler. Diger ulkelerde olan ic siyasi problemler ve dunya savaslarindan sonra bircok artist ve ressam birbirleri ardi ardina Paris’e goc ettiler. Bircok sanatci en meshur eserlerini Paris’te yaptilar. Hatta Paris’te bircoguna ait muzeler bile var. Picasso, Dali muzeleri gibi. Montmartre ya da ‘ bizim kolayca soyledigimiz gibi ‘ressamlar tepesi’. 20. yy’nin basinda, ‘Guzel donemde’ (Belle Epoque) Monet’den Van Gogh’a, Dali’den Anvers’e, Mondrian’dan Picasso’ya kadar bircok ressamin Montmarte’de ya da civar mahallelerde studyolari vardi. 

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The nearest station is Lamarck-Caulaincourt and only 10 mins to the hill. IMG_6892Before hill you may want to stop at La Maison Rose for small break. Basilica of the Sacre-Coeur is another touristic attraction on the top of the hill. From hill city has splendid panaroma, in sunny days you cant find a place to sit on the stairs. Dali Museum is in here too. Personally I didn’t like any crepe places in here. 

Montmarte icin en yakin metro istasyonu Lamarck-Caulaincourt ve buradan tepeye 10 dakika yuruyorsunuz. Tepeye cikmadan once La Maison Rose’da kucuk bir mola vermek isteyebilirsiniz. Basilica of the Sacre-Coeur ise tepedeki bir diger onemli turistik mekan. Tepeden sehir cok guzel gozukuyor, gunesli bir havada merdivenlerde oturacak bir yer bile bulamiyorsunuz. Dali Muzesi’de burada bulunuyor. Burada bulunan hicbir krepciyi begenmedim. 

Also Montmartre is known with nightclub district. If you walk down from hill. Artists give their spaces to cabaret dancers or revues. Moulin Rouge is the legend of night life is here too. It is famous with cancan dances. Red Mill wings we see today it is the only remained pieces from fire in 1900.

Ayrica Montmartre gece klubleri ile unlu. Tepeden asagi dogru yurumeye baslarsaniz. Ressamlar yerlerini kabere danscilarina ya da refu danscilarina birakmaya basliyorlar. Gece hayatinin sembolu ve Kankan dansi ile unlu olan Moulin Rouge’da burada bulunuyor. Bugun gordugumuz kirmizi degirmen ise 1900’de olan yangindan geriye kalan tek orjinal parca.

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I will leave the best part at last 

Where would it be ? 

Of course colourful houses 

En guzel kismi ise tabii ki de en sona biraktim

Neresi olabilir ki ? 

Tabii ki de renkli renkli evlerin oldugu bir yer. 

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Rue Cremieux, the most colourful and beautiful street in Paris. Rue Cremieux is Paris candy bar. It is tricky to find it, I struggled a bit at first. It is 5 mins distance to Gare de Lyon train stations. From main entrance of station cross the road and keep walking on left and you will notice the colors. It is not very big street but some houses are very original and more artistic than Burano or Portobello Road. 

Rue Cremieux, Paris’te ki en renkli ve guzel sokak. Burasi Paris’in seker kamisi gibi sanki. Bulmasi biraz zor, ilk basta biraz zorlandim. Gare de Lyon tren istasyonuna 5 dk yurume mesafesi uzaklikta. Istasyonun ana kapisindan cikip karsiya gecin ve yurumeye devam edin ve solda kalin ve renkleri fark ediceksiniz sonrasinda. Oyle cok buyuk bir sokak degil ama bazi evler co orjinal ve Burano ya da Portabello’dan cok daha artistikler. 

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Capital of luxuary, Paris is ‘light city’ (ville lumiere)

Luksun baskenti Paris, ‘isik sehir’ (ville lumiere)

As I said, I always postponed Paris, I realised how big mistake was it. I understood one more time how traveling train you, how it lecture you better than books either school. You are your own teacher while you on the road. I wouldn’t see the beauty of Paris if I listen to my inner voice.

I am going to come again and again to this ‘light city’. 

Daha oncede dedigim gibi Paris’i hep sonra gorurum diye erteledim. Ama ne kadar buyuk bir hata yapmisim. Seyahat etmenin en iyi egitim oldugunu, seni kitaptan ya da okuldan daha iyi egittigini bir kez daha anladim. Yoldayken sen kendinin ogretmenisin. Eger kendi ic sesimi dinlemeye devam etseymisim Paris’in guzelliklerini asla goremezdim. 

Bu ‘isik sehrine’ tabii ki de yine yine gelicem. 

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